Seattle Home Inspection Newsletter

Trusting your GFCI test button could kill you!

Mon, 08 Feb 2010 23:17:54 -0600

A "GFCI" is a ground fault circuit interrupter. These are inexpensive outlets when they are PROPERLY installed prevent over 200 electrocutions each year. The problem is we find them wired incorrectly several times a week.

The 'TEST" button is confusing if they are installed wrong. Today, I found one with the positive and negative connections backwards, (the test button still works) and more commonly we find them connected without a ground especially in older homes (again the test button still works). While it is technically legal to install without a ground, most electricians prefer not to install a grounded-type "three prong" outlet in an ungrounded situation. Once the outlet is installed, there is no way for anyone to know if the outlet is really grounded or not without testing it. There is a hidden shock hazard should an appliance or tool that needs grounding is plugged into this outlet.

We recommend that you buy a cheap tester like we have, without it, you have no way to assure it is properly installed. Read more about the importance of GFCIs here

You can find these testers at your local hardware store on online for less the $10

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Though a GFI will activate if a grounded appliance develops an electrical short circuit to ground... such as when YOU touch a metal saw and become the path to ground... you will experience a momentary electrical shock. This could be a minor tingle or could be more catastrophic, especially if you are on a ladder or roof. This excerpt is from an OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) article on wiring in nursing homes and the dangers to employees working with ungrounded outlets...

"The ground-fault circuit interrupter, on the other hand, is a fast-acting device which senses small current leakage to ground and, in a fraction of a second, shuts off the electricity and interrupts its faulty flow to ground. The rapid response of the GFCI is fast enough to prevent electrocution and this protection is independent of the condition of the grounding conductor.

A GFCI can prevent an electrocution; however, it cannot by itself prevent an initial electric shock to an employee before it interrupts the circuit. This initial shock could lead to injuries of an indirect or secondary nature in which involuntary muscular reaction could cause bruises, bone fractures, and even death resulting from collisions or falls. Therefore, GFCIs are in addition to, and not in lieu of, equipment grounding conductor requirements."

(Here is a link to the complete article:

http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=FEDERAL_REGISTER&p_id=13346 )

Are there any situations where a GFI will not protect me from a dangerous shock?

GFI's are not effective in certain circumstances. As mentioned earlier, they work by measuring the difference between the electrical current going INTO an appliance and the current going OUT of the appliance. This assumes that the person being shocked is grounded. If you were ungrounded and touched the hot and neutral wires at the same time, there would be no drop in current detected, so the GFI would not activate. Then, you would be at the mercy of the fuses or circuit breakers, which may or may not stop the current before its too late!

A second situation where a GFI will not protect you is when a second, unprotected circuit is involved in an accident. This can happen when a wire is accidentally drilled into or a metal screw penetrates a wire hidden in the wall. Unless this second circuit is also protected, you are at full risk of electrocution, even if the tool itself is on a protected circuit!

Source: http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infelectrical/infgfi.html#7

BACKDRAFTING EXHAUST GAS HAZARDS - brought to you by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

Fri, 26 Feb 2010 10:49:48 -0600

We found this in a home in West Seattle yesterday. The furnace and hot water heater shared the same closet. The furnaces cold air return was broken, and sucking air out of the small space pulling the exhaust out of the burner chamber under this hot water heater.

The sheet metal is loose on the joists
that make up this furnaces cold air
return. Not only causing the hot water
to backdraft, but very efficiently
distributing these potentially lethal
gasses throughout the home.

This hot water heater has exhaust rollout. If your water heater has these stains please have it checked out.

What makes this so dangerous is that the exhaust gasses from this water heater are getting circulated throughout the home by the furnace! I repeat, EVERYONE with gas appliances, attached garages or in multifamily MUST HAVE CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS. What you can't smell can kill you!

Read more on backdrafting at our website.

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Interior Air Quality Problems and Solutions

Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:39:40 -0600

Builders have made great strides to make our homes energy efficient. This has resulted in new problems with the quality of the air. We typically spend 12 or more hours a day in our homes resulting in potentially long term exposure to unhealthy air. Some homes have from 2 to 100 times more polluted air than outside. This pollution can cause serious health problems. Dust, smoke, pet dander, mold, mildew, and dust mites are all very common in the typical home. We have researched this problem and found several tips to improve air quality.

Fan forced furnaces: If your home is equipped with a fan forced furnace, have the fan running continuously. This will draw air through the filters capturing harmful pollutants. Keep the filters clean, replacing them every 60 to 90 days. High efficiency air filters will capture up to 30 time more pollutants then standard filters. The spun organic/fiberglass filters are the poorest choice, so avoid the reusable washable types. If you do not have a fan forced furnace, you might consider using a portable air cleaner. The units have a huge range in costs and effectiveness, read more about portable air filter from the American Lung Association here. Kitchens: Keep the kitchen vented when cooking, especially if you are cooking with gas appliances. Combustion gases and burning foods can cause serious health problems. All gas cooking appliances require fresh air to properly operate and prevent accumulation of carbon monoxide. Use the exhaust fans and/or keep a kitchen window open while cooking.

Wood heating sources: If you have a fireplace or wood stove, it is recommended that a window be kept open slightly to provide adequate combustion air, especially in a newer tightly constructed home. Keep firewood stored outside. Green firewood can release mold spores, which can contaminate your home. It is estimated that 1/3 of all Americans fail to do this making it one of the major contributors to indoor air quality problems. Bioaerosols: Excess moisture in the air can cause bioaerosols to proliferate. Mold, mildew, fungus and dust mites are all organisms that can cause health problems. Reducing the humidity/moisture sources and air handling equipment maintenance are important steps to controlling these problems.

Bathrooms: Bathrooms are one common source of moisture, especially showers. Always use bath exhaust fans if present or open windows to remove excess moisture. Make sure bath fans are vented outside the home and not into attics.

Inspect vents and keep them clean: Often crawlspace vents can get clogged with landscaping materials, weeds, grass clippings etc. Ventilation is very important to keeping crawlspace moisture low. Beside health issues, excessive moisture in crawlspaces is a conducive condition to wood destroying organisms. If you have combustion appliances, check the air intake vents to assure they are not clogged. Hot water heaters, furnaces, gas stoves etc are possible sources of carbon monoxide without a good supply of fresh air. The American Lung Association recommends annual service of all combustion appliances. At a minimum install carbon monoxide detectors on each level of your home. "Bioaerosols are extremely small living organisms or fragments of living things suspended in the air. Dust mites, molds, fungi, spores, pollen, bacteria, viruses, amoebas, fragments of plant materials, and human and pet dander (skin which has been shed) are some examples. They cannot be seen without a magnifying glass or microscope." (1)

Sources (1) Dr. Sandra A. Zaslow, Extension District Director, and Dr. Mary Beth Genter, Extension Leader, Toxicology - North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, publication FCS-360-5

American Lung Association

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Moisture Ants, The First in our series on Structural Pests in the Northwest

Sat, 02 Jan 2010 15:43:59 -0600

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The structural pests in the Northwest of greatest concern are all dependent on high moisture content in the wood.

If you think about our area of the world, our structural pests all evolved in wet forests. This moisture can come from rain, soil, water supply lines and drains. All these possible sources need to be addressed or there will certainly be a problem. Around here, keep it dry and them pests will usually keep away.
This is a picture from under a toilet. We checked it before we got in the crawlspace, and noted that it was loose. This nearly always leads to leaks and if not promptly addressed, wood decay. Such leaks are sometimes not so obvious especially if there is insulation and or wall-board installed.

This is frass or debris and excrement produced by insects. These piles were in regular intervals along the base of the homes exterior wall. After carefully looking at it, we determined that it was not sand and the regular intervals aligned perfectly with the floor joists. I removed some of the insulation that covered the rim on the outside of the building and I found moisture ants, lots of them and extensive damage to the structure. There were about 15 joists visible, and 15 neat piles of frass.

Every single joist we looked at was covered in these pesky pests at this end of the home. We took careful note of this area of the home and proceeded to explore the exterior to determine what were the contributing problems that causes this infestations. Click this picture to see a close up.

"Most pest species are yellow; they can vary to a rather dark brown, from 3–5 mm long. These are monomorphic species having workers all the same size. Maxillary palpi are long and five-segmented. Colonies usually occur in decayed logs and stumps, but some may be found in soil" WSU Extension Bulletin 1382

Upon further investigation we noticed that the grade next to the home on this side was sloped the wrong way, trapping water next to the home. The gutters and downspouts were in poor condition, and there was other visible damage on the siding. The exterior of this home had been neglected for years, having plants touching the structure is several places, deck framing in poor condition, and need of paint and caulk.

Inside the crawlspace we found more frass, and bare earth. All soil under homes should be covered with plastic, there can be up to 15 gallons of water evaporating under the house a day. A vapor barrier will help control the moisture content, keeping it less susceptible to wood destroying organisms.

Treatment for these pests is usually very simple. Eliminate the moisture and repair the damaged wood, pesticides are usually not necessary. Keeping your wood surfaces clean, painted and dry will prevent most common issues.

Never buy a home without a complete wood destroying organism report

Source WSU Extension Bulletin 1382

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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Water problems and solutions under your home - by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

Sun, 07 Jun 2009 22:12:12 -0500

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The most common source of water under homes is ineffective downspouts and missing splashblocks or drains.
Inspect them regularly for failing mounts, crushed downspouts, and proper drainage.

Water in crawlspaces or basements can cause major damage. Many homes have water problems and the solutions can range significantly in cost to remedy. You always should start with the simple and cheapest solutions.
Gutters and Downspouts

Gutter mounts failing and the downspout is disconnected.
Keep downspout drains clear.

Everyone should walk around their homes in the worst weather, at least a few times a year and look to see how the gutters and downspouts are working. Moss, leaves or other debris can easily clog downspouts and gutters will overflow, possibly causing damage to roofs, fascia and soffits as well as flooding areas below grade.

Keep then cleaned and maintained, make sure all downspouts are discharging away from the building. If the water puddles next to the foundation, it is likely to end up in the basement of crawlspace. Make sure mounts are tight and there are no low spots along gutter runs.

Clean them at least once a year, usually after the leaves have dropped in fall. Some homes need more frequent cleaning.

Grading

If there is a negative grade (soil sloped to the home) water may puddle next to the foundation. Where possible, always have soil graded away from the structure. Consider repairing any concrete walks or patios that may slope to the home

Be careful with landscaping edging and planter boxes, as they often will cause water to puddle. Never allow downspouts to discharge in low areas like planters, but instead carry water several feet away from the building.

French Drains

This option is very effective at capturing water and draining it away before it can work its way under the home.

This is one example of a french drain

They can be expensive, so it is advised that you check the gutters, downspouts, splashblocks/drains and grading before opting for a french drainage system

Drains and Sump Pumps

In some homes where the water table is high and drainage is poor, you have to deal with the excess water with drains or pumps. Drains are useful when there is a suitable location to hookup the pipes to. Often times you are facing a situation where there is on location low enough to have gravity do the job, and in these cases a pump is the best answer.

We recommend that you consider a backup pump in situations where its failure can cause significant damage or flooding. If there is a power failure or the pump breaks down, the backup can be very important.

One type of a back up pump is powered by the water supply to the home. These have the advantage of mechanically simple, relatively inexpensive and can do the job until you repair the primary pump or the power is restored. This type of pump does waste water, so they are not to be used as a primary pump, only a backup.

See a video on installing a water powered sump pump here.

When the power goes out, you will be glad you have one!

Energy Savings and Safety Tips for Holiday Lighting

Sat, 28 Nov 2009 20:58:18 -0600

Holiday lighting is a wonderful tradition, and these tips will help to keep you and your family safe. Use care not to overload your circuits. Do not run too many strings together, the amount of lights on string that can safely be connected differs for each type of light. Read and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Carefully inspect each string for frayed insulation, loose connections or broken bulbs. Never plug in a string that has bulbs broken open, as the interior filament is a electrocution hazard. Only use lights outdoors that are approved for outdoor use.

Use timers to control your lighting to save more energy. This chart dramatically contrasts the old style bulbs with modern LED technology lighting using as little as 1.15% of the energy of the old style lighting.

Another consideration is heat. Never install old style bulbs on a real tree. Think of string of 100, 10 watt lights, that is 1000 watts light and heat. You would never put a 1000 watt heater on a tree for obvious reasons, and these strings are nearly the equivalent of doing just that.

Be careful when hanging lights. Loose wiring is more easily damaged by movement from trees and wind. Never use standard staples, as they can cut into insulation and cause a short or shock hazard. Best to use insulated clips to hang lighting.

GFCI protected outlets are recommended for all outdoor electrical use. They dramatically reduce the risk of electrical shocks and electrocutions.

Use only UL approved exterior grade power cords outside with proper ground (3 prong connector). Never run cords through doorways, windows where they could get damaged or be a trip hazard. Keep all plugs and connectors off the ground, away from puddles and snow.

If you blow fuses or trip breakers, reduce the load on that circuit. Never change the amperage if a blown fuse, if a 15 amp fuse blows, reduce the load on that circuit and replace with the exact same type 15 amp fuse. The wiring in the home is designed to only carry the current of the fuse. That blown fuse likely prevented the wiring from overheating and possible fire.

If you see flickering lights, sparks, warm switches, plugs, or outlets, or dimming lights, there is a potential dangerous problem that could cause an electrical fire.

As always use extreme care on ladders, make sure they have a good footing and are steady. Never touch your exterior power drop! Any contact with a poorly insulated drop will kill you, an aluminum ladder is an excellent electrical conductor.

Read more about holiday lighting safety here from Washington State University Extension Energy Program and the Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance.

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Getting Your Home Ready For Winter

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:31:48 -0500

With winter on its way a few routine steps will help keep you safe, comfortable and save you money.

Take care of safety Items first
Check your smoke detectors. If you have an attached garage, live in multi-family, or have gas, oil or wood burning appliances, you must have a carbon monoxide detector!! All homes should have them, since there is no way to tell if you have a problem with CO. Most people never know they have a problem until someone is make sick or they are killed.

Take any warning from a carbon monoxide detector very seriously, and call the fire department.

Check your Heat
If you have an oil furnace, have it checked annually. A very small adjustment can make a huge difference in your heating bill, not to mention reducing the pollution from poorly adjusted burners.

Gas furnaces should be checked regularly too. Our recommendations is to have the 1st service at 5 years, again at 10, then every year thereafter for a mid efficiency furnace. (80% with metal exhaust flues) Some high efficiency models have shorter live spans (closer to 10 years) so they need annual checks by 7 years (90% plastic exhaust condensing furnaces) Be sure to keep up on changing your furnace filters. If you have a electric fan forced wall unit (like a Cadet or a King) be sure to properly clean them. We have a copy of the instructions here.

Chimneys, If you heat with wood, have your flue swept and checked every year. Examine wood stoves for cracked or missing fire bricks, poor door seals, and loose or damaged flue pipes.

Prepare the exterior
Clean gutters and check the downspouts assuring that they discharge away from the building, the further the better.

All non frost free hose bibs should be insulated to protect them from freezing. Be sure to disconnect hoses! A hose will cause a frost free hose bib to freeze when the water in the hose freezes.

Look at all trees, and other plants. They should be trimmed back so they cant touch the home. Any contact is a natural path for insects, rodents, and can contribute to structural pests.

Walk around your home and look at the bottom row of siding. Ideally there should be 6 inches of concrete below the bottom row of siding. If soil or bark is piled too high there is a much greater chance of problems with termites ants or beetles damaging the home.

Look at every window and door. Check weather stripping, repair as necessary. Look at every threshold and door sweep, if there are gaps, you will be loosing heat. Caulk all gaps in siding, trim, utility holes, etc.

If it is safe to do so, remove any leaves and other debris from the roof. Use great care to not remove the granules on a asphalt roof. (DO NOT PRESSURE WASH) Ideally on a dry day, carefully use a leaf blower, debris in valleys and behind chimney's can cause water to back up and cause leaks.

Tips for selling your home and a smooth buyers inspection

Mon, 14 Sep 2009 20:13:30 -0500

When you are selling your home, you should be prepared for the buyers to have your home inspected. All good inspectors will be looking for how your home had been maintained. Before you list your home, take a close look at these items and you will be better prepared and it may make the difference in a tight market. Make sure there is clear access to all components of the home including electrical panels, water heaters, heating/air conditioners, attics and crawlspaces.

Walk around your homes exterior

1) Roof - Clean roof GENTLY (NO pressure washers, they can ruin a roof!) Carefully using a leaf blower, clean all valleys or other areas. If you use too much force, you will loosen the grit from the roofing and the sun will cause the roofing to shrink and crack.
Clean gutters, repair any loose mounts or leaking joints.
Have professionally swept and/or repair chimney, check masonry, mortar, crowns, bricks/blocks, liners, flashings, rain covers. Check chimney siding, trim, paint, caulk, etc. Have the receipts available for buyers and inspectors.

2) Landscape - Is the soil/mulch touching the homes siding? We would like to see 6" clearance, any less then 3" is too close. Maintain a slope away from the home so water will naturally run off. Never allow water to puddle next to your home. Trim all trees and bushes from touching any of the structure.

3) Drainage - Check every downspout, splash block and drain. Assure that they all direct water away from the home and are not leaking or loose.

4) Repair any loose trim or siding. Caulk all holes, siding, trim, doors and windows. Paint and stain all exterior surfaces.

5) If the driveways are asphalt, they often would benefit from a sealer coat.

Inside the home

1) Heating/AC systems
Have all furnaces, boilers, etc cleaned/serviced and filters changed with receipts for the buyers/inspectors.

2) Safety Equipment
check all smoke detectors, CO detectors, fire extinguishers. Test all GFCIs (they are required within 6 feet of water, outside, in basements and garages.)

Here is a great tip. If you know you need GFCIs and you know how read instructions, then install them! Use care, and never work on live circuits. If an inspector sees a missing gfci, it is likely to cost you $75 or $100 for a "licensed and bonded professional" to install one. If you do it, and you do it correctly, it costs around $15 or less for the part.

3) Lighting and outlets
Repair any broken switches, outlets, covers, fixtures or bulbs.

4) Hardware
Examine every door, lock, hinge, doorstop, casing, and trim. All doors and windows should close and lock easily, repair and adjust as necessary. Weather-stripping should be in good repair. Repair any broken glass, counter balance springs, trim, etc. If the screens are really poor, remove them!

5) Plumbing
Check all toilets, they must be tight and not move when you push them with your knee. The flooring around them should be clean and not have any leaks. Run every sink, and tub look for leaks, sink stoppers, leaking showerheads, enclosures or valves, and loose hardware.
Examine and repair any gaps or cracks in grout and caulk.

Attic - check insulation and ventilation. Assure that no bathroom or other fans exhaust in the attic.

Prepare your home

6) Clean and Paint
Put on your homes best face, clean all floors, carpets, repair any cracks and holes in the drywall and paint. Clean all clutter! Tastefully decorate - properly staged homes are much easier to sell!

Keeping it Cool, Tips to Make Your Home More Confortable - by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

Wed, 01 Jul 2009 09:43:35 -0500

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With the warmer weather, we are looking to ways to keep our homes cool. Here are some tips to keep your home comfortable.

Window Coverings
When the temperatures are expected to be high, consider keeping shades closed throughout the day. It is amazing the difference in heat gain when the sun is kept off the windows. I have blinds, thermal shades and exterior sun screens that we use on the hottest days to keep the solar gain to a minimum.

Fans
I have a digital indoor and outdoor thermometer that I use to determine when the outside temperature has dropped below the inside temperature. When the temperature outside has dropped in the evening, I have a large box fan that is tightly fitted in a back bedroom window that exhausts the hot interior air outside. This causes negative air pressure in the house, and when you open other windows in the home, you will get a nice cool breeze coming in.

Fan Controller
I have built a simple thermostat to control this fan, (See a diagram and instructions here) so when the house temperature drops below 67 or so, the fan turns off automatically. Don't forget to remove the fan, close up the windows and shades in the morning to keep the air as cool as possible during the day.

Wall Air Conditioners
We have also installed ceiling fans to keep the air moving, this helps make it much more comfortable, especially in bedrooms. In my home, I have small room air conditioners that keep an individual room cool. this is especially nice on very hot evenings when you can't cool the house with a fan because the outside air temperature it too high. If you keep the door closed these window units are a great choice.

Home Air Conditioners
If you have a central air conditioner, there are a few items you should consider to keep it running at peak efficiency.

The outside component of your unit is called the compressor. It houses the pump and the blower that cool the compressed gas that is then pumped into the home to cool the air inside. We see these units covered with landscaping debris (grass, weeds, bushes etc.) all the time.

When this happens the airflow is restricted and it has to work harder to cool your home. Always keep these units clear from obstructions, so they can easily cool the coils. Keep lawn clippings from blowing on them when trimming the grass. Sometimes dryer vents are located too close to AC units, plugging them with lint.

Read your manual on the best way to clean the unit. Some may be hosed off, ALWAYS TURN OFF THE POWER when cleaning them. Others require more complex cleaning. A dirty AC will waste a lot of energy. When in doubt have a professional clean it regularly, usually at least once a year.

Attic Fans
These will help keep he attic spaces cool. Ideally the attic is the same temperature as the outside air. In the summer, I routinely enter attics that are as high at 145 degrees! Ventilation and insulation are both critical to keep this heat away from your living space. If your attic has less then 12 inches of insulation consider having more added. This will pay for itself in heating in winter and keep you much more comfortable in summer.

Roofing
When re-roofing a home, consider using light colored coverings. They will reduce the heat from the sun. We always recommend silver coating un-coated torch down roofs. It will extend their life and help cool your home.

Thermostats
Use automatic thermostats with timers to control your cooling system. Be sure your air filters are clean, and your ductwork is tight, well insulated and free from leaks. We see leaking ductwork every day!

Landscaping
We recommend that you plant trees that will drop their leaves in winter on the south and west side of homes. This way you have shade in summer and the sun can naturally heat the home in winter. Remember to keep all plants trimmed away from the building.

"To increase the efficiency of your air-conditioning unit by up to 10 percent, plant trees and shrubs to shade the outside unit; place them at least 18 inches away so they don't block the vents on the compressor. For more tips on ways to use landscaping to increase the energy efficiency of your home, see the DOE's landscaping advice." Consumer Reports

Window Fall Hazards - another safety tip from the Seattle Home Inspection Team

Tue, 02 Jun 2009 23:16:59 -0500

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Always keep small children away from open windows

With the warm weather we are enjoying it is important to consider the hazards to children with windows. Every summer there are a spike of fall injuries of children when we open windows up to let fresh air in.

Window screens have warnings on then informing consumers that the they are not to be considered fall safety devices. Most screens will come dislodged or tear with only moderate pressure. The view and fresh air are very appealing to young children.

The Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that there have been 3200 children treated in hospitals and 25 deaths in 2007 from window falls. These accidents are easy to prevent.

All windows should have safety stops or barriers to prevent children from falling out of windows. These should be easily removable by older kids and adults in case of fire. Any window that opens and children have access to should be considered a falling hazard. No window that is accessible to children should open more then 4".

Many parents make the faulty assumption that a window screen will prevent this kind of accident.

Where a window can be opened from the top and bottom, always open only the top. It is much safer to open the top of a double hung window.

Never keep furniture near a window that a child can climb on and gain access to a window.

These tips brought to you by Home Inspection of Puget Sound,
your local independent Greater Seattle area home inspection team.

Laundry Safety Tips, brought to you by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

Mon, 01 Jun 2009 16:59:30 -0500

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We use laundry equipment everyday with out a lot of thought to the potential hazards they may pose. According the Consumer Product Safety Commission washers and dryers are responsible for more then $230,000,000 worth of property damage a year in the US alone. Most of the common problems at the root of these statistics are easy to address.

Power Cords

We found this dryer power cord on an inspection, notice it does not have a proper strain relief connector.

As with all power cords be careful when you use the plugs, but ESPECIALLY with large 240 volt connections. The plugs are large and require a bit of effort to insert, making it necessary to wrap your hand around the plug and it is easy to accidentally touch the conductors when inserting or removing them. This same advice applies to all large sockets like electric ranges, RV plugs, large tools etc.
Metal braided hoses are much more resistant to bursting.

Plugged vents and hoses are a fire hazard.

This hot water heater has exhaust rollout. Improper flue design or inadequate air supply can cause combustion gasses to vent into the home. If your heater has these stains please have it checked out.

Dryers use a lot of power, and usually do not come with their power cords installed when you buy them. When hooking up a power cord, follow the manufacturers instructions, and be sure to have the proper strain relief fitting. Since dryers vibrate and can have sharp edges to the sheet metal enclosures, cords can short out, causing a potential fire or electrocution hazard.

Washing machine hoses

These hoses are under pressure all the time and can burst causing extensive water damage to the home. Since washers will jiggle when they operate the hoses can rub against the wall behind them. We always recommend the metal braided hoses for washers since they are much more burst resistant and less likely to be damaged by the movement of the appliance. Leave at least 4 inches of space behind the washer to prevent hoses from kinking or chafing and inspect them regularly. If you see any bulges, rust or any other damage, replace them right away.

Dryer vents and lint build up

It is recommended that you check and clean the dryer venting regularly. Use flexible metal pipe, not the foil or vinyl accordion type hoses, they are more likely to catch lint and have an increased risk of fire.
Read an article on cleaning dryer vents here.

Smoke detectors are important in laundry areas, since fires associated with dryers cause more then $80 million of damage a year. Be sure that dryers are properly vented outside and not leaking inside the home, attic or crawlspace as this moisture is a conducive condition for structural pests. If there is significant lint buildup inside, your dryer vent is likely leaking.

Fresh air/back drafting

When dryers run they exhaust a lot of air outside the home. This can produce a negative air pressure condition leading to a possible back-drafting of combustion gasses from furnaces, hot water heaters etc. This problem is especially true in modern energy efficient homes or confined spaces such as a closet. All homes with combustion appliances must have carbon monoxide detectors!
Read more about back-drafting hazards here.

GFCIs

Then properly installed, GFCIs prevent two thirds of all serious electric shocks a year. All outlets with in 6 feet of water, (laundry, kitchens and bathrooms) in garages or outside should have GFCIs. They are cheap and easy to install and might save your life.
Read how install them here.

Explosion hazards

Both washers and dryers have electric motors and other components that can produce sparks capable of igniting flammable vapors or gasses. Laundry equipment are sometimes in garages where there may be gasoline, paint, solvents, propane etc. Always store these chemicals in their original, properly labeled air tight containers. If there is a spill, DO NOT use any electrical appliance or garage door openers until it is cleaned up and all vapors have dissipated.

These tips brought to you by Home Inspection of Puget Sound,
your local independent Greater Seattle area home inspection team.

Earthquakes Survival Tips - From The Seattle Home Inspection Team

Mon, 01 Jun 2009 16:42:13 -0500

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Earthquakes are a part of life. You should be prepared, history tells us it will certainly happen again.

Utility Shut Offs -

Everyone should know where and how to turn off all utilities to your home. We will often see these shutoff locations inaccessible. Never block a gas meter shutoff valve, water shutoff or breaker panel! In an emergency you must be able to shut these off or risk fire, explosion, electrocution, serious water damage or even death.

Water -
The main shutoff for most homes is sometimes hard to find. Since these valves are rarely used they will often leak when you turn them off. For these reasons, we recommend that you locate your main shutoff at your water meter.

This valve is usually under a cover near the sidewalk or at the edge of the road. Open this cover and look for the valve, you will need a tool to turn this off. There are a couple types of valves, so it is important to look at yours and make sure you have the proper tool to turn off the water.

Most of then can be turned with an adjustable wrench, similar to the valve on a gas line. Others may require a special tool available at your local hardware store. If you are on a well, familiarize yourself with the equipment in your pump house so you know how to turn off the pump and water valves.

Natural Gas -
These shutoffs are located at the meter. It is best to have a wrench that is tethered to the meter, so you know it is there when you need it. If you have propane the tanks have shut off valves at the lines connecting them to the home or appliance.

If you ever smell a strong odor of gas (rotten egg smell) shut off the gas immediately, turn off the electricity (this can prevent explosions or fire) and open all the doors and windows. Call 911 for the fire department and the gas company to locate and isolate the gas leak.

Electricity -
You should know how to turn off the power to your home. Usually there is a main shutoff in the breaker panel or at the power meter. Occasionally there is no single main shutoff, in this case, turn off every breaker in the panel.

If your home has a fuse box there will sometimes be a shut off above or beside the box. If there is no shut off, then unscrew each fuse and lay them out in the same pattern as they were in the box. This is so you can replace each fuse in the proper location and not mix up the amperages of the circuits. Most older homes also have 2 or more pull out fuse holders, so remove these also.

Hot Water Heaters -
When there are earthquakes, water heaters will often fall over. All water heaters should be anchored to walls. These straps should be heavy steel, not flimsy 'plumbing straps'. A standard water heater can easily weigh over 400 pounds and plumbing straps are inadequate. Most people only worry about gas powered hot water heaters, but we are concerned with all of them. An electric heater that falls over will cause a huge leaking mess not to mention the power connected is typically 20 amps 240 volts! This can easily kill anyone that comes in contact with an electrified puddle.

Structural Concerns
Many homes suffer significant damage when they shift off their foundations or the walls that attach the home to the foundations buckle. While it is no guarantee, proper anchor bolts, shear walls, and positive post to beam connections make a home much more resistant to the movement during an earthquake.

Anchor bolts -
Most modern homes have these installed when the concrete is poured. They also can be retrofitted after construction.

Another option is to have seismic anchors attached to the sill plates and bolted into the foundation. This type of retrofit can not only strengthen the home, but may make you eligible for a reduction in homeowners earthquake insurance rates.

Pony Walls -
Also known as cripple walls are susceptible to collapse in an earthquake. The lateral movement when the earth starts moving can cause this kind of failure.

Most homes only have diagonal wood bracing, and this is often not strong enough to resist collapse. Shear walls have plywood nailed to them as in the diagram below.

Post to Beam Connections, Joist Hangers -
A positive connection where post meet beams and where beam meet each other is usually a very simple step, it is an inexpensive fix and all connections should have them. Many structures and decks are lacking joist hangers, again, a simple and cheap fix that can save your life and help your home survive an earthquake.

More Information and Videos -
See this pamphlet provided by the city of San Leandro for more expert information on earthquake retrofits

These videos by Mark Benthien-Director of Communication, Education, and Outreach, Southern California Earthquake Center have some great tips on earthquake preparedness and survival

Also see videos on: Surviving an Earthquake and Earthquake Kits

These tips brought to you by Home Inspection of Puget Sound,
your local independent Greater Seattle area home inspection team.