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Stormy day in the Northwest, are you ready for a power outage?

Tue, 22 Nov 2011 11:40:16 -0500

How will you heat your home when the power goes out?

If you have a gas fireplace, be sure it will work when the power is off. Turn off the electricity and see if you can light it. Some fireplaces will light ONLY IF THE PILOT IS LIT BEFORE THE POWER IS OFF! Others have batteries, and we find old crusty corroded batteries all the time. If your fireplace has a battery holder under the lower vent, be sure to keep some on hand in a drawer. Don't leave batteries in the fireplace, or when the time comes to use it, you may find the contacts all corroded and it wont light.

If you have a fireplace or other wood burning appliances, be sure to have the flues swept and examined for damage. This is often the most neglected part of the home since its somewhat of a specialty to maintain them.

Other power failure tips

Everyone should have one old fashioned land line, cordless phones will not work.
Be sure you have a cell phone charger that will work in your car.
Don't open the freezer at all. A cold freezer that is full will stay cold for a long time if you don't open it.
Those on wells, make sure you have stored extra water.
If your home has a sump-pump, be sure to keep a clear path to it in case you end up bailing water out.
If your home has a sanitary pump, be sure not to use any plumbing connected to it.
In the day of Ipods, many people don't have AM/FM battery powered radios any more, get one.
Keep plenty of batteries and flashlights on hand. Of course use extreme care with candles!
If you use a generator, double check where the exhaust is venting, and you MUST have a carbon monoxide detector in your home!!

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What is that beeping in my attic??

Mon, 29 Aug 2011 11:37:26 -0400

Often heating and cooling contractors will install equipment in attics that have drains for condensate. It is a normal part of their operation to have water that must be drained. If there is a problem with this system (mildew and dirt can clog them) it could leak and make a mess. Most have a tray under them to protect ceilings in case of a leak but it won't do you any good if it overflows. Some trays have a drain and the best installs have alarms.

I cant tell you how many times I have found an alarm in an attic and the clients had no idea. We recommend a tray and an alarm under all water heaters and washing machines in any location in your home where a leak will cause damage. They are cheap and may save you a ton of money and headache when your equipment leaks.

One more tip:
Toss the rubber hoses out that connect your washing machine, get the metal braided hoses. Washing machine hoses bursting are the number one homeowners claim. Super cheap insurance to change them early.

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Roof replacement: Tear Off or not to Tear Off?

Mon, 27 Jun 2011 09:23:28 -0400

A cheap roofing bid will almost always be a "roof over" We generally are against this practice.
A roof that is installed over an old roof will not lay flat. This can cause the new roof to not perform as well, leading t premature leaks and failure. It also traps more heat, causing the tar in the roof to evaporate petroleum, leading to cracks and failure. The extra layers can be too heavy for structure and if a roof over is to be considered, careful examination of the attic framing should be done first. In most cases, a tear off will result in an much better roof.

See our complete roof shopping tips before you get your bids. You will get a better value and longer lasing roof if you know how to shop.
Home Inspections of Puget Sound, Seattle, Tacoma Everett and Olympia and all of King, Pierce, Snohomish and Thurston Counties

I am always learning new things in my job.

Tue, 24 May 2011 19:29:49 -0400

A few years ago I had a problem with carpenter ants that originated in some firewood. I knew that I needed professional help and I contacted a reputable pest control company, thats where I met Juan with Willard Pest Control. I really learned a lot that day, and I have had a great working relationship with Willard's ever since. Fast forward a year later, and Juan was looking at a home to buy himself, and he hired us to inspect it. He did what almost no other clients do, he went into the crawlspace with me. While I was looking for structural pests, Juan taught me some great tips for detecting other types of pest problems.

In a crawlspace that is dusty, and most of them are, you can see evidence like this when there is a rat infestation. Here is another example.

This is where a sewer pipe passes through the foundation. The rodents have been coming in around this sewer pipe as the hole through the concrete is a lot bigger then the pipe itself. In this case, there was not a lot of droppings or any other evidence, but the footprints left behind are clear evidence that they have been there. We are not experts at rodents or their control, but know people that are and we see evidence like this every day. If you have issues with any kind of pests, give us a call. We will give you advice and recommend tips to get them under control.

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

Seattle, Tacoma Olympia and Everett and all of King, Snohomish Peirce and Thurston Counties

Don't get left behind, are you using QR-Codes?

Sat, 19 Feb 2011 15:06:31 -0500

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I have been thinking of lots of uses for QR codes. I store QR-codes on my phone, this one allows others to schedule an inspection by taking a picture of my phone with their phone!

I have lots other QR codes also stored on my phone, my contact info, great contractors, even a referral list for other home inspectors.

If you are a Realtor, you might have a QR code for your website, listings you have or the code for a great home inspector! (I can send it to you too!)

Here is a free site to create these codes:
http://qrcode.kaywa.com/

and a reader to test them without a phone here:
http://zxing.org/w/decode.jspx

If you phone doesn't yet have a reader, look for software for your phone here:
http://www.mobile-barcodes.com/qr-code-software/

Another tip, the more complicated the link, the more complex the QR-code is. Look at these 2 samples

They both work, but you have to be closer to the one on the left.

I converted
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Home-Inspections-of-Puget-Sound-Seattle-Tacoma-Everett-areas/268876830685
into
http://on.fb.me/fGyiF

This turned my FB url from 107 charters to only 21 There are a variety of websites that can shorten your long links, making simpler barcodes (or making long links easier to fit on Twitter). You automatically will be redirected to the longer URL. It's that easy!

Here are a 2 examples of link shortening services:

And a site dedicated to Realtors that want to incorporate these codes is here:
http://vyoo.it/products/list.php

If you want to see an example of these codes in action see this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOgyC8liCfg

If you have any questions about these, give me a call and I am happy to share tips with you too.

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Buyers Love Fresh Paint - We Don't Always Love it Too

Wed, 02 Feb 2011 16:56:31 -0500

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Most home buyers love it when there is fresh pain inside, as a home inspector, we look at it in a different light. What is under the paint?

When we inspect homes, we have lots of tools to help us accurately report what we see, smell or suspect. One of the most valuable in our tool-bag is a moisture meter. This tool helps us to determine the percentage of water in a material, like wood or sheetrock. It is a pricey tool at $570, but its worth every penny!

Yesterday we looked at a high end town home and something about the ceiling didn't look right. There was no stain to be seen, but instead we noticed slightly mismatched paint and poor drywall repair job. Using our moisture meter, we took 'baseline' readings of the same sheetrock and found about 8%-10% moisture content, these are normal. When we ran the meter over the repaired area, the meter read 76%! There was no visible evidence of and active leak, only poor workmanship of a repair. We never want to see numbers above 17%, that is the level in kiln dried lumber, and wood this dry is resistant to wood destroying organisms.

What made this situation so disturbing to me was the form 17 (sellers disclosure statement) admitted that there had been a leak years ago and it had been repaired and there was no leak now. Not only was this leak active, but with this fresh paint, there is no question someone was attempting to hide it.

Even with great tools, an inspector needs intuition and experience. We always take it as a clue about the honesty of a seller if they lived in a home for many years and claim there is nothing wrong. Almost all homes have some issues, and honest sellers know its important to state that upfront.

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Hybrid Heat Pump Energy Efficient Water Heating

Wed, 19 Jan 2011 13:27:17 -0500

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This type of water heater uses a compressed gas to produce heat, instead of a resistive electrical heating element. They can save over 60% of the energy consumed by a standard electric water heater. This works out to a savings of $320 a year on average. The cost is about double that of a standard water heater, with a payback on average of 3-5 years. With an expected lifespan of 13 years, it could save you around $3000 over its service life.

There are some issues with noise and installation location issues, so do your research before you buy one.

It's generally easier to move something than to make something. Putting that principle to use, heat pump water heater (HPWH) technology uses electricity to move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly.

To understand the concept of heat pumps, imagine a refrigerator working in reverse. While a refrigerator removes heat from an enclosed box and expels that heat to the surrounding air, a HPWH takes the heat from surrounding air and transfers it to water in an enclosed tank. A low-pressure liquid refrigerant is vaporized in the heat pump's evaporator and passed into the compressor. As the pressure of the refrigerant increases, so does its temperature. The heated refrigerant runs through a condenser coil within the storage tank, transferring heat to the water stored there. As the refrigerant delivers its heat to the water, it cools and condenses, and then passes through an expansion valve where the pressure is reduced and the cycle starts over.

Water heating energy usage comparisons

Water Heater Type

Efficiency

Installed Cost

Yearly Energy

Life

Total Cost

Conventional gas storage

0.60

$850

$350

$5,394

High-efficiency gas storage

0.65

$1,025

$323

$5,220

Condensing gas storage

0.86

$2,000

$244

$5,170

Conventional oil-fired storage

0.55

$1,400

$654

$11,299

Minimum Efficiency electric storage

0.90

$750

$463

$6,769

High-eff. electric storage

0.95

$820

$439

$6,528

Demand gas (no pilot) 5

0.82

$1,600

$256

$4,925

Electric heat pump water heater

2.20

$1,660

$190

$4,125

Solar with electric back-up

1.20

$4,800

$175

$7,072

Sources:
American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy
General Electric

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Home energy savings tips

Sun, 05 Dec 2010 10:44:11 -0500

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Saving energy in your home will not only save you money, but will also help the environment by reducing the need for hydro-electric dams and fossil fuels used to produce electricity. These steps will pay for themselves again and again for years to come.

The average home looses up to 20% of its heating due to drafts. Doors, windows, outlets, and switches are all common areas of heat loss. Most heating bills in our area can be $2000 a season or more meaning those drafts can cost you $400 a year! That buys a lot of weather stripping and caulking. Most doors and windows are easy to check with just your hand, if you feel the cold air coming in then you are loosing heat. Outlets and switches also can be drafty, if you feel cool air around them, consider foam gaskets under the cover plates. Old single pane windows can be made more efficient by installing storm windows or inside magnetic panels to reduce drafts. Read more on caulk and weather stripping here.

During the day, let the sunlight in to reduce lighting costs, but at sunset, closing curtains will also help reduce heat loss. Consider cellular blinds as they are more energy efficient then blinds and shutters.

Turning down your thermostat by one degree can save over 5 percent on your heating bill. Consider electronic thermostats with built in timers to reduce energy use when you are at work or sleeping. You can still awaken to a warm house and not use energy when you don't need to. Avoid heating rooms you don't use by closing heat vents or turning down individual room thermostats.

Have your heating system checked regularly to assure that it is running at top efficiency, and always keep air filters clean. A tiny change in a furnace or boiler systems combustion can dramatically lower your heating bills and will often pay for the service call in energy savings.

Water heaters use a lot of energy and should have the thermostats set to 120 degrees. Not only will this save energy, but dramatically reduces the risk of scalding injuries. If it is set higher, you will be using a lot of cold water to bring the temperature down. Gas how water heaters have their thermostat on the exterior and are easy to set, electric heaters are under cover and should be set by a professional. Read more about energy efficient water heating here.

Take showers instead of filling a bath and save about 50% of the energy. Low flow shower heads save both water and energy. If you have a hot tub, make sure the cavity under the tub is insulated and you use a insulated cover. Turn down the heat when you are not going to use it for an extended time.

Lighting is one of the easiest ways to save energy and money. Compact florescent lights (CFLs) are direct replacements for standard incandescent light bulbs. The 100 watt equivalent lights can last 13 times longer and use less then 1/4th the energy. When you buy and install a 6 pack of CFLs, it is like putting $550 in your pocket! They have styles now for replacing bathroom globes and outdoor flood lights. But remember they can't be used with dimmers, and must be disposed of properly. Most hardware stores will take the old lights back.

Computers use significant energy, especially those that are left on all the time. Remember a screensaver saves no energy, but hibernation does, or better yet power them off and save more. Modern LCD displays use 1/3 the energy then a old CRT. Same with most laptops, they are more energy efficient then a standard desktop.

TV's use power all the time, even when they are turned 'off'. Most entertainment devices with remotes (DVD players, VCRs, stereo equipment also use power in standby mode. Unplugging them when you are not using them will save energy.

Keep freezers free from excessive ice buildup. A defrosted freezer is more efficient. Open the doors a minimum amount of time to keep the cold inside. Every time a refrigerator door is opened, the compressor had to re-chill the contents.

Laundry is another big power user, so wash full loads. Use the coolest water temperature that will do the job, and always rinse with cold water. The washing machine itself doesn't use nearly the energy as the water heater does to wash in warm or hot water. The clothes dryer is one of the highest energy use appliance in most homes. Use a clothes line and you will save significant energy.

Look for the "Energy Star" label on all household appliances, and buy the ones with the lowest energy use.

Home without adequate insulation should upgraded. The first place is in the attic, it is cheap and easy to add. The payback in energy savings is very fast since 1/3rd of heat lost is through the roof. If you walls are un-insulated we recommend adding it there too. It will pay you back for as long as you own the home and increase the re-sale value.

Examples of Where to Insulate

1. In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between and over the floor joists to seal off living spaces below. 1A attic access door

2. In finished attic rooms with or without dormer, insulate …

2A between the studs of "knee" walls;

2B between the studs and rafters of exterior walls and roof;

2C ceilings with cold spaces above;

2D extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.

3. All exterior walls, including …

3A walls between living spaces and unheated garages, shed roofs, or storage areas;

3B foundation walls above ground level;

3C foundation walls in heated basements, full wall either interior or exterior.

4. Floors above cold spaces, such as vented craw spaces and unheated garages. Also insulate …

4A any portion of the floor in a room that is cantilevered beyond the exterior wall below;

4B slab floors built directly on the ground;

4C as an alternative to floor insulation, foundation walls of un-vented crawl spaces;

4D extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.

5. Band joists.

6. Replacement or storm windows and caulk and seal around all windows and doors.

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Tips for Thawing Frozen Pipes

Tue, 23 Nov 2010 10:39:32 -0500

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Since this is such an unusual cold snap in the Seattle (18 degrees this morning here), I thought I would pass along this article on thawing frozen pipes, just in case this happens to you. The plumbers of the city are going to be really busy today!

During cold weather, pipes in your walls, attic or under your floor can freeze. Frozen pipes can crack or burst because as water freezes, it expands. With enough expansion, pipes will develop cracks. The cracks may not be visible but they will leak nonetheless when the ice melts. If a frozen section of pipe is caught in time, there may be no damage; but it must be thawed before any more freezing occurs. Protecting pipes from freezing is the best plan, but if you are reading this, then that will have to take a backseat to thawing the frozen pipes.

If there is a slow trickle at the faucet, leave the faucet open. The flowing water will help to prevent a complete frozen blockage. In addition, the flowing water may help to melt the existing partial blockage. Continue with the following steps to ensure the pipes thaw completely.

Locate the Frozen Pipe

The first step to thaw frozen pipes is to locate the section of pipe and turn off the local water supply to it. To determine whether a section of pipe is frozen, simply feel it. Frozen pipe will feel very cold, while pipe with free flowing water will feel notably warmer. Try to find a pipe through which water is still flowing to use as a comparison. After a couple minutes of running, the pipe should be around 50 degrees or so. If you have an infrared thermometer, it makes finding frozen pipes easy.

How to repair a frozen or broken pipe

If there is no water at any of the taps in the house, the main water line may be frozen somewhere between the meter and where the water line enters the house. Typically this line is buried, and buried at the locally mandated depth to protect it from freezing. There is little to be done to thaw a buried water line. The only course of action is to rebury the line deeper, below the frost line, to ensure against future freezes.

In serious freezes, there may be multiple frozen sections of pipe in various vulnerable locations. The first point to inspect is where the water line comes out of the ground and where it enters your home. Any exposed pipe is vulnerable if it is exposed to outside air, even if it is in your attic, unconditioned basement or crawlspace.

Exterior walls, even when insulated, may get cold enough to freeze pipes inside the wall. Pipes that pass near an exterior vent in your home are subjected to colder air and are a good place to start hunting. If there is no water in only one part of the house, then the frozen pipe is probably in an exterior wall, attic, crawl space or basement.

Once you locate the frozen section, if the pipe is accessible, inspect it visually and by running your fingers over the pipe to feel for cracks or splits. If you find damage, you may want to get repair materials ready before thawing the pipe. If the pipe is not accessible, read on for techniques to deal with hard to reach pipes.

Before you start the thawing process, open water taps on the frozen line to allow water, steam or pressure to escape. This will allow water to drain out as the ice melts and will tell you if you have succeeded in melting the obstruction.

How you heat the pipe depends upon the type of pipe and the location. But in all cases start nearest the tap and work outward. Never heat a pipe with direct flame or boiling water. Heating a pipe too quickly can result in bursting, damage and injury.

Accessible pipes can be heated with a hair dryer. Keep the dryer moving and do not focus it on any one place too long.

Hot wet rags can be used to heat pipes. Simply immerse a rag in hot water (about 110 degrees F) and wrap it around the pipe. Replace the rag when it cools.

A grounded, water resistant heating pad can be wrapped around the pipe and set to the lowest heat setting.

Thawing Metal pipes

While a flame can be used to heat accessible copper or steel pipes, it is not recommended to use a direct flame on any pipe as this increases the risk of damage to the pipe as well as presenting a fire risk. Never heat the pipe any warmer than you can comfortably tolerate holding the pipe bare handed and always use a flame spreader to diffuse the flame. Never use a flame on plastic pipe.

Accessible pipes can be heated with a hair dryer. Keep the dryer moving and do not focus it on any one place too long.

Hot wet rags can be used to heat pipes. Simply immerse a rag in hot water and wrap it around the pipe. If you are able to catch water from under the pipe, you can go a step further by pouring hot (not boiling) water over the rags.

A grounded, water resistant heating pad can be wrapped around the pipe and set to the lowest heat setting.

Thawing Inaccessible pipes

Frozen water pipes located in inaccessible locations can be warmed by raising the ambient temperature. In cases where the pipe is located in an exterior facing wall, open cabinets to allow warm interior air to warm the cabinet and wall. Locating pipes may require a little detective work. First consider, most pipes travel through walls in the most direct route to get to the room they service. The water lines are likely to be near the rooms they service. Raising the indoor temperature will increase the temperature in all rooms and help heat pipes in exterior walls. But direct application of heat where the pipes run will speed the process even more.

You may place a heat lamp or portable heater facing the wall to warm it. Before using a heat source remove any combustible materials and follow all manufacturers safety warnings about how close it may be placed to the wall or other obstruction. In the absence of other warnings, place the heat source no closer than 18 inches from the wall or obstruction.

Heating this way will take time, but it does work.

Source: http://www.acmehowto.com

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Fall Maintenance Items for Your Honey Do List

Tue, 09 Nov 2010 15:59:28 -0500

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Last Sunday we set our clocks for standard time. There are several home maintenance items we need to think about this time of year.

My number one item on my list, carbon monoxide (CO) detectors. If you are a realtor we have worked with in the past or a client, you know how important we think these are! According to the CPSC, in 2002 there were 188 deaths from CO.

We all know about smoke detectors, and they are important, but CO is invisible and deadly. Buy the cheap, battery powered ones, as they are disposable and expire in 7 years. You can order cheap detectors here starting at less then $10. If they ever go off, believe them since you can't smell or see CO. Get out and call the fire department.

Consider any backdrafting hazards in your home. Be sure all appliances have adequate air supply and cold air return on furnaces are not picking up combustion gasses.

Some of the other items that we have on our list for this time of year are:
- Service your heating system (if applicable - oil, gas, propane etc)
- Smoke and carbon monoxide detector batteries
- Check/clean your fireplace/chimneys as they may be your back up source of heat
- Light pilots on fireplaces with millivolt ignition systems/change batteries if equipped
- Clean gutters, keep any drains clear of debris
- Weather-stripping and caulking windows, doors, trim, siding etc

See more regular maintenance worksheet for homeowners here.

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Garage door security

Thu, 26 Aug 2010 11:51:52 -0400

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I had a fellow home inspector share this video on just how fast someone can break into garage. I never thought it would be so easy. Watch the this demonstration and see someone get in just 6 seconds. Of course once they are in the garage, they can take their time breaking into the home since they will be out of sight. Make sure to have a secure door to the home from your garage with a proper deadbolt. This door should also be a fire rated auto closure door. Keep it locked!

We recommend you zip tie the release lever to the slider. You will have to cut the zip tie to manually open the door. This is one of the quickest and simple ways to secure your home for less then a nickel.

Thanks to Aaron Lore of Aaron's Home Inspections for bringing this to my attention!

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Bare bulb fixtures - Often overlooked safety hazard kills 5 in Seattle

Tue, 03 Aug 2010 13:59:56 -0400

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We found this in a closet yesterday, and reminded me to write about this very common and overlooked safety hazard. This type light fixture is the suspected cause for the fire in Fremont that killed 5.

Bare bulb fixtures can be dangerous, especially in closets where it is easy to make contact with flammables (clothes, blankets pillows) also are a hazard if you break the bulb accessing the upper shelf.

A compact florescent bulbs are safer, as they are much cooler and less likely to be a fire hazard. They is still the issue of breaking glass when you move things on and off the shelf

The best answer to to replace these fixtures with ones with protective cover.

May the victims rest in peace.

"Seattle's deadliest fire in decades was sparked by a foam mattress left too close to a bare bulb in a closet, Fire Chief Gregory Dean said during a Wednesday news conference.

Four children and a 22-year-old woman were killed in blaze, reported at just after 10 a.m. in an apartment at 334 N.W. 41st St. Another woman and a 5-year-old girl were able to escape as fire and heavy smoke trapped the other five occupants in a bathroom at the rear of the two-story apartment.

A light bulb inside a first-floor closet ignited a rolled foam mattress. One victim investigated the smoke then began opening windows and doors around the home in an attempt to clear the smoke. As the fire grew, Dean said, the open windows and doors acted as a chimney and fed the fire." The Seattle Times

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Ductless Heat Pumps - Seattle's Home Inspection Team

Fri, 30 Jul 2010 21:00:40 -0400

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These units are a good alternative for homes with electric heating sources. They have 2 components, and interior air handling unit(s) and a outdoor compressor. Conduit connects the 2 parts with electrical power and refrigerant lines. Since the interior units are controlled separately, there is zonal control so you can save energy by controlling each zone. You only heat or cool the areas you need to.

They are easier to install then other types of heating. The hookup between the units is usually a single conduit requiring 1 3" hole. Since they have no ductwork there is no energy loss associated with central fan forced air systems (up to 30% alone). Overall efficiencies increases of up to 50% in the best case, making the payback faster.

You may be eligible for big discounts from Federal Tax credit, (expires Dec 31, 2010 - 30%), Washington State rebate program and Utility incentive program (for another $1500) bringing the price down by nearly 2/3rds and saving energy every day!

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Is a sewer scope a good idea?

Tue, 29 Jun 2010 18:31:34 -0400

I always tell our clients that are buying an older home it is.

The company you hire is very important. Don't hire the companies that also repair sewers. At $5000 to $25,000 for a major repair, it is cheap insurance. Ask if they pull toilets if necessary.

We were on an inspection yesterday and the scoping company would not pull a toilet, and could not get his camera all the way to the street sewer. The customer paid $250 (too much) for marginal service and still has no idea if the sewer is okay.

If you need a referral for a quality company, give us a call, we work with them all the time.

Some tips to be looking for are:

1)Sewer snakes, root growth inhibitors, and excesive drain cleaners.

2) If there is a sewer cleanout and the cap is different from the rest of the plumbing, (ie a rubber expansion plug in a cast iron drain) instead of the original brass cap, there had likely been work done on the sewer lines.

3)Look for stains at the floor drains in basements, foul odors, and tags from a sewer cleaning companies.

4)Sinkholes in the yard and movement of the soils, especially for steeply sloped lots.

We recently got a note from a client after they had a sewer check after we recommended it. This home was 100 years old and they had 4 bottles of drain cleaners in the basement. He said, "We used (a recommended vendor) per your recommendation (and suspicion during the inspection). It revealed a ~$1,500+ issue that could have turned worse down the road, so it was $195 well spent."

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Louisiana Pacific Siding, How to Recognize it and Preventive Maintenance Tips

Sat, 19 Jun 2010 11:02:05 -0400

Does your home have LP siding?

Be sure to check for any damage, diligently caulk and paint it. Keep shrubs, trees and plants a minimum of one foot from the siding, keep sprinklers away, maintain gutters and downspouts. See our tip sheet for more information on recognizing LP and maintenance tips. http://hipspro.com/pubs/TRIFOLD_LP-siding.pdf

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