Seattle Home Inspection Newsletter

Garage door security

Thu, 26 Aug 2010 11:51:52 -0400

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I had a fellow home inspector share this video on just how fast someone can break into garage. I never thought it would be so easy. Watch the this demonstration and see someone get in just 6 seconds. Of course once they are in the garage, they can take their time breaking into the home since they will be out of sight. Make sure to have a secure door to the home from your garage with a proper deadbolt. This door should also be a fire rated auto closure door. Keep it locked!

We recommend you zip tie the release lever to the slider. You will have to cut the zip tie to manually open the door. This is one of the quickest and simple ways to secure your home for less then a nickel.

Thanks to Aaron Lore of Aaron's Home Inspections for bringing this to my attention!

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Bare bulb fixtures - Often overlooked safety hazard kills 5 in Seattle

Tue, 03 Aug 2010 13:59:56 -0400

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We found this in a closet yesterday, and reminded me to write about this very common and overlooked safety hazard. This type light fixture is the suspected cause for the fire in Fremont that killed 5.

Bare bulb fixtures can be dangerous, especially in closets where it is easy to make contact with flammables (clothes, blankets pillows) also are a hazard if you break the bulb accessing the upper shelf.

A compact florescent bulbs are safer, as they are much cooler and less likely to be a fire hazard. They is still the issue of breaking glass when you move things on and off the shelf

The best answer to to replace these fixtures with ones with protective cover.

May the victims rest in peace.

"Seattle's deadliest fire in decades was sparked by a foam mattress left too close to a bare bulb in a closet, Fire Chief Gregory Dean said during a Wednesday news conference.

Four children and a 22-year-old woman were killed in blaze, reported at just after 10 a.m. in an apartment at 334 N.W. 41st St. Another woman and a 5-year-old girl were able to escape as fire and heavy smoke trapped the other five occupants in a bathroom at the rear of the two-story apartment.

A light bulb inside a first-floor closet ignited a rolled foam mattress. One victim investigated the smoke then began opening windows and doors around the home in an attempt to clear the smoke. As the fire grew, Dean said, the open windows and doors acted as a chimney and fed the fire." The Seattle Times

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Ductless Heat Pumps - Seattle's Home Inspection Team

Fri, 30 Jul 2010 21:00:40 -0400

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These units are a good alternative for homes with electric heating sources. They have 2 components, and interior air handling unit(s) and a outdoor compressor. Conduit connects the 2 parts with electrical power and refrigerant lines. Since the interior units are controlled separately, there is zonal control so you can save energy by controlling each zone. You only heat or cool the areas you need to.

They are easier to install then other types of heating. The hookup between the units is usually a single conduit requiring 1 3" hole. Since they have no ductwork there is no energy loss associated with central fan forced air systems (up to 30% alone). Overall efficiencies increases of up to 50% in the best case, making the payback faster.

You may be eligible for big discounts from Federal Tax credit, (expires Dec 31, 2010 - 30%), Washington State rebate program and Utility incentive program (for another $1500) bringing the price down by nearly 2/3rds and saving energy every day!

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Is a sewer scope a good idea?

Tue, 29 Jun 2010 18:31:34 -0400

I always tell our clients that are buying an older home it is.

The company you hire is very important. Don't hire the companies that also repair sewers. At $5000 to $25,000 for a major repair, it is cheap insurance. Ask if they pull toilets if necessary.

We were on an inspection yesterday and the scoping company would not pull a toilet, and could not get his camera all the way to the street sewer. The customer paid $250 (too much) for marginal service and still has no idea if the sewer is okay.

If you need a referral for a quality company, give us a call, we work with them all the time.

Some tips to be looking for are:

1)Sewer snakes, root growth inhibitors, and excesive drain cleaners.

2) If there is a sewer cleanout and the cap is different from the rest of the plumbing, (ie a rubber expansion plug in a cast iron drain) instead of the original brass cap, there had likely been work done on the sewer lines.

3)Look for stains at the floor drains in basements, foul odors, and tags from a sewer cleaning companies.

4)Sinkholes in the yard and movement of the soils, especially for steeply sloped lots.

We recently got a note from a client after they had a sewer check after we recommended it. This home was 100 years old and they had 4 bottles of drain cleaners in the basement. He said, "We used (a recommended vendor) per your recommendation (and suspicion during the inspection). It revealed a ~$1,500+ issue that could have turned worse down the road, so it was $195 well spent."

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Louisiana Pacific Siding, How to Recognize it and Preventive Maintenance Tips

Sat, 19 Jun 2010 11:02:05 -0400

Does your home have LP siding?

Be sure to check for any damage, diligently caulk and paint it. Keep shrubs, trees and plants a minimum of one foot from the siding, keep sprinklers away, maintain gutters and downspouts. See our tip sheet for more information on recognizing LP and maintenance tips. http://hipspro.com/pubs/TRIFOLD_LP-siding.pdf

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Tip-over Hazards - assure all freestanding ranges are secured. - Seattle Inspection team

Sat, 22 May 2010 10:58:04 -0400

If you have a freestanding range, be sure it can't tip over.

Old ranges weighed so much they were hard to knock over, but even a very young toddler can knock over a modern one. Half of all fatal accidents involved kids less then 2!

http://www.cpsc.gov/volstd/ranges/ranges.html

206-295-4330

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Sanitary Pump Venting

Sat, 10 Apr 2010 13:37:59 -0400

We found this under a sink last recently. This is a basement kitchen that is below the sewer for the home and they have installed a sanitary pump to push the waste water up to the sewer line. It STUNK, literally!

It was allowing sewer gases to escape under the kitchen cabinet. These tanks must be vented to work properly. As water enters the pump basin, there must be a way for air to be displaced. A proper installation would have had this vent pipe go up the wall and exiting through the roof. They had a Studor valve sitting next to the pump. These devices are one-way valves that allow air in but do not allow for sewer gas to escape. In this example, it is not good idea, since as the basin fills with waste water, the air must escape, and as the pump empties it, air must enter the basin.

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Carpenter Ants - They are back!!

Wed, 24 Mar 2010 22:13:30 -0400

Spring is here and we found our first carpenter ants of the season yesterday. Everyone in western Washington should know how to recognize these destructive pests. They cause more damage to homes then any other insect in our area.

If you find anything like these, call us and we will positively identify them for you . We will pass along advice to avoid them and keep them under control. BTW, don't bother fighting them yourself, you can't buy the recommended pesticide to control them without a license.

Other tips to recognize them, They almost never walk side-by-side, almost always in single file, and not head to tail, but about 1 foot apart. Their favorite food is other insects so look for them to be returning to your home with aphids or other small insects in their jaws. If you find these and want advice call us, no charge. 206-295-4330

The best treatment is called Termidor, a very strictly regulated chemical, only a professional with a license can buy it, and by law, it can only be used 2 times a year on any given home. If you have a serious infestation, they also may use a wall injection along with the Termidor perimeter spray. We have recommendations for local pest control officers that will help you with controlling these destructive critters. If you want a their number give us a call.

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BACKDRAFTING EXHAUST GAS HAZARDS - brought to you by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

Fri, 26 Feb 2010 10:49:48 -0500

We found this in a home in West Seattle yesterday. The furnace and hot water heater shared the same closet. The furnaces cold air return was broken, and sucking air out of the small space pulling the exhaust out of the burner chamber under this hot water heater.

The sheet metal is loose on the joists
that make up this furnaces cold air
return. Not only causing the hot water
to backdraft, but very efficiently
distributing these potentially lethal
gasses throughout the home.

This hot water heater has exhaust rollout. If your water heater has these stains please have it checked out.

What makes this so dangerous is that the exhaust gasses from this water heater are getting circulated throughout the home by the furnace! I repeat, EVERYONE with gas appliances, attached garages or in multifamily MUST HAVE CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS. What you can't smell can kill you!

Read more on backdrafting at our website.

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Trusting your GFCI test button could kill you!

Mon, 08 Feb 2010 23:17:54 -0500

A "GFCI" is a ground fault circuit interrupter. These are inexpensive outlets when they are PROPERLY installed prevent over 200 electrocutions each year. The problem is we find them wired incorrectly several times a week.

The 'TEST" button is confusing if they are installed wrong. Today, I found one with the positive and negative connections backwards, (the test button still works) and more commonly we find them connected without a ground especially in older homes (again the test button still works). While it is technically legal to install without a ground, most electricians prefer not to install a grounded-type "three prong" outlet in an ungrounded situation. Once the outlet is installed, there is no way for anyone to know if the outlet is really grounded or not without testing it. There is a hidden shock hazard should an appliance or tool that needs grounding is plugged into this outlet.

We recommend that you buy a cheap tester like we have, without it, you have no way to assure it is properly installed. Read more about the importance of GFCIs here

You can find these testers at your local hardware store on online for less the $10

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Though a GFI will activate if a grounded appliance develops an electrical short circuit to ground... such as when YOU touch a metal saw and become the path to ground... you will experience a momentary electrical shock. This could be a minor tingle or could be more catastrophic, especially if you are on a ladder or roof. This excerpt is from an OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) article on wiring in nursing homes and the dangers to employees working with ungrounded outlets...

"The ground-fault circuit interrupter, on the other hand, is a fast-acting device which senses small current leakage to ground and, in a fraction of a second, shuts off the electricity and interrupts its faulty flow to ground. The rapid response of the GFCI is fast enough to prevent electrocution and this protection is independent of the condition of the grounding conductor.

A GFCI can prevent an electrocution; however, it cannot by itself prevent an initial electric shock to an employee before it interrupts the circuit. This initial shock could lead to injuries of an indirect or secondary nature in which involuntary muscular reaction could cause bruises, bone fractures, and even death resulting from collisions or falls. Therefore, GFCIs are in addition to, and not in lieu of, equipment grounding conductor requirements."

(Here is a link to the complete article:

http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=FEDERAL_REGISTER&p_id=13346 )

Are there any situations where a GFI will not protect me from a dangerous shock?

GFI's are not effective in certain circumstances. As mentioned earlier, they work by measuring the difference between the electrical current going INTO an appliance and the current going OUT of the appliance. This assumes that the person being shocked is grounded. If you were ungrounded and touched the hot and neutral wires at the same time, there would be no drop in current detected, so the GFI would not activate. Then, you would be at the mercy of the fuses or circuit breakers, which may or may not stop the current before its too late!

A second situation where a GFI will not protect you is when a second, unprotected circuit is involved in an accident. This can happen when a wire is accidentally drilled into or a metal screw penetrates a wire hidden in the wall. Unless this second circuit is also protected, you are at full risk of electrocution, even if the tool itself is on a protected circuit!

Source: http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infelectrical/infgfi.html#7

Interior Air Quality Problems and Solutions

Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:39:40 -0500

Builders have made great strides to make our homes energy efficient. This has resulted in new problems with the quality of the air. We typically spend 12 or more hours a day in our homes resulting in potentially long term exposure to unhealthy air. Some homes have from 2 to 100 times more polluted air than outside. This pollution can cause serious health problems. Dust, smoke, pet dander, mold, mildew, and dust mites are all very common in the typical home. We have researched this problem and found several tips to improve air quality.

Fan forced furnaces: If your home is equipped with a fan forced furnace, have the fan running continuously. This will draw air through the filters capturing harmful pollutants. Keep the filters clean, replacing them every 60 to 90 days. High efficiency air filters will capture up to 30 time more pollutants then standard filters. The spun organic/fiberglass filters are the poorest choice, so avoid the reusable washable types. If you do not have a fan forced furnace, you might consider using a portable air cleaner. The units have a huge range in costs and effectiveness, read more about portable air filter from the American Lung Association here. Kitchens: Keep the kitchen vented when cooking, especially if you are cooking with gas appliances. Combustion gases and burning foods can cause serious health problems. All gas cooking appliances require fresh air to properly operate and prevent accumulation of carbon monoxide. Use the exhaust fans and/or keep a kitchen window open while cooking.

Wood heating sources: If you have a fireplace or wood stove, it is recommended that a window be kept open slightly to provide adequate combustion air, especially in a newer tightly constructed home. Keep firewood stored outside. Green firewood can release mold spores, which can contaminate your home. It is estimated that 1/3 of all Americans fail to do this making it one of the major contributors to indoor air quality problems. Bioaerosols: Excess moisture in the air can cause bioaerosols to proliferate. Mold, mildew, fungus and dust mites are all organisms that can cause health problems. Reducing the humidity/moisture sources and air handling equipment maintenance are important steps to controlling these problems.

Bathrooms: Bathrooms are one common source of moisture, especially showers. Always use bath exhaust fans if present or open windows to remove excess moisture. Make sure bath fans are vented outside the home and not into attics.

Inspect vents and keep them clean: Often crawlspace vents can get clogged with landscaping materials, weeds, grass clippings etc. Ventilation is very important to keeping crawlspace moisture low. Beside health issues, excessive moisture in crawlspaces is a conducive condition to wood destroying organisms. If you have combustion appliances, check the air intake vents to assure they are not clogged. Hot water heaters, furnaces, gas stoves etc are possible sources of carbon monoxide without a good supply of fresh air. The American Lung Association recommends annual service of all combustion appliances. At a minimum install carbon monoxide detectors on each level of your home. "Bioaerosols are extremely small living organisms or fragments of living things suspended in the air. Dust mites, molds, fungi, spores, pollen, bacteria, viruses, amoebas, fragments of plant materials, and human and pet dander (skin which has been shed) are some examples. They cannot be seen without a magnifying glass or microscope." (1)

Sources (1) Dr. Sandra A. Zaslow, Extension District Director, and Dr. Mary Beth Genter, Extension Leader, Toxicology - North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, publication FCS-360-5

American Lung Association

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Moisture Ants, The First in our series on Structural Pests in the Northwest

Sat, 02 Jan 2010 15:43:59 -0500

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The structural pests in the Northwest of greatest concern are all dependent on high moisture content in the wood.

If you think about our area of the world, our structural pests all evolved in wet forests. This moisture can come from rain, soil, water supply lines and drains. All these possible sources need to be addressed or there will certainly be a problem. Around here, keep it dry and them pests will usually keep away.
This is a picture from under a toilet. We checked it before we got in the crawlspace, and noted that it was loose. This nearly always leads to leaks and if not promptly addressed, wood decay. Such leaks are sometimes not so obvious especially if there is insulation and or wall-board installed.

This is frass or debris and excrement produced by insects. These piles were in regular intervals along the base of the homes exterior wall. After carefully looking at it, we determined that it was not sand and the regular intervals aligned perfectly with the floor joists. I removed some of the insulation that covered the rim on the outside of the building and I found moisture ants, lots of them and extensive damage to the structure. There were about 15 joists visible, and 15 neat piles of frass.

Every single joist we looked at was covered in these pesky pests at this end of the home. We took careful note of this area of the home and proceeded to explore the exterior to determine what were the contributing problems that causes this infestations. Click this picture to see a close up.

"Most pest species are yellow; they can vary to a rather dark brown, from 3–5 mm long. These are monomorphic species having workers all the same size. Maxillary palpi are long and five-segmented. Colonies usually occur in decayed logs and stumps, but some may be found in soil" WSU Extension Bulletin 1382

Upon further investigation we noticed that the grade next to the home on this side was sloped the wrong way, trapping water next to the home. The gutters and downspouts were in poor condition, and there was other visible damage on the siding. The exterior of this home had been neglected for years, having plants touching the structure is several places, deck framing in poor condition, and need of paint and caulk.

Inside the crawlspace we found more frass, and bare earth. All soil under homes should be covered with plastic, there can be up to 15 gallons of water evaporating under the house a day. A vapor barrier will help control the moisture content, keeping it less susceptible to wood destroying organisms.

Treatment for these pests is usually very simple. Eliminate the moisture and repair the damaged wood, pesticides are usually not necessary. Keeping your wood surfaces clean, painted and dry will prevent most common issues.

Never buy a home without a complete wood destroying organism report

Source WSU Extension Bulletin 1382

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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Water problems and solutions under your home - by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

Sun, 07 Jun 2009 22:12:12 -0400

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The most common source of water under homes is ineffective downspouts and missing splashblocks or drains.
Inspect them regularly for failing mounts, crushed downspouts, and proper drainage. Water in crawlspaces or basements can cause major damage. Many homes have water problems and the solutions can range significantly in cost to remedy. You always should start with the simple and cheapest solutions.

Gutters and Downspouts

Gutter mounts failing and the downspout is disconnected.
Keep downspout drains clear.

Everyone should walk around their homes in the worst weather, at least a few times a year and look to see how the gutters and downspouts are working. Moss, leaves or other debris can easily clog downspouts and gutters will overflow, possibly causing damage to roofs, fascia and soffits as well as flooding areas below grade.

Keep then cleaned and maintained, make sure all downspouts are discharging away from the building. If the water puddles next to the foundation, it is likely to end up in the basement of crawlspace. Make sure mounts are tight and there are no low spots along gutter runs.

Clean them at least once a year, usually after the leaves have dropped in fall. Some homes need more frequent cleaning.

Grading

If there is a negative grade (soil sloped to the home) water may puddle next to the foundation. Where possible, always have soil graded away from the structure. Consider repairing any concrete walks or patios that may slope to the home

Be careful with landscaping edging and planter boxes, as they often will cause water to puddle. Never allow downspouts to discharge in low areas like planters, but instead carry water several feet away from the building.

French Drains

This option is very effective at capturing water and draining it away before it can work its way under the home.

This is one example of a french drain

They can be expensive, so it is advised that you check the gutters, downspouts, splashblocks/drains and grading before opting for a french drainage system

Drains and Sump Pumps

In some homes where the water table is high and drainage is poor, you have to deal with the excess water with drains or pumps. Drains are useful when there is a suitable location to hookup the pipes to. Often times you are facing a situation where there is on location low enough to have gravity do the job, and in these cases a pump is the best answer.

We recommend that you consider a backup pump in situations where its failure can cause significant damage or flooding. If there is a power failure or the pump breaks down, the backup can be very important.

One type of a back up pump is powered by the water supply to the home. These have the advantage of mechanically simple, relatively inexpensive and can do the job until you repair the primary pump or the power is restored. This type of pump does waste water, so they are not to be used as a primary pump, only a backup.

See a video on installing a water powered sump pump here.

When the power goes out, you will be glad you have one!

Energy Savings and Safety Tips for Holiday Lighting

Sat, 28 Nov 2009 20:58:18 -0500

Holiday lighting is a wonderful tradition, and these tips will help to keep you and your family safe. Use care not to overload your circuits. Do not run too many strings together, the amount of lights on string that can safely be connected differs for each type of light. Read and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Carefully inspect each string for frayed insulation, loose connections or broken bulbs. Never plug in a string that has bulbs broken open, as the interior filament is a electrocution hazard. Only use lights outdoors that are approved for outdoor use.

Use timers to control your lighting to save more energy. This chart dramatically contrasts the old style bulbs with modern LED technology lighting using as little as 1.15% of the energy of the old style lighting.

Another consideration is heat. Never install old style bulbs on a real tree. Think of string of 100, 10 watt lights, that is 1000 watts light and heat. You would never put a 1000 watt heater on a tree for obvious reasons, and these strings are nearly the equivalent of doing just that.

Be careful when hanging lights. Loose wiring is more easily damaged by movement from trees and wind. Never use standard staples, as they can cut into insulation and cause a short or shock hazard. Best to use insulated clips to hang lighting.

GFCI protected outlets are recommended for all outdoor electrical use. They dramatically reduce the risk of electrical shocks and electrocutions.

Use only UL approved exterior grade power cords outside with proper ground (3 prong connector). Never run cords through doorways, windows where they could get damaged or be a trip hazard. Keep all plugs and connectors off the ground, away from puddles and snow.

If you blow fuses or trip breakers, reduce the load on that circuit. Never change the amperage if a blown fuse, if a 15 amp fuse blows, reduce the load on that circuit and replace with the exact same type 15 amp fuse. The wiring in the home is designed to only carry the current of the fuse. That blown fuse likely prevented the wiring from overheating and possible fire.

If you see flickering lights, sparks, warm switches, plugs, or outlets, or dimming lights, there is a potential dangerous problem that could cause an electrical fire.

As always use extreme care on ladders, make sure they have a good footing and are steady. Never touch your exterior power drop! Any contact with a poorly insulated drop will kill you, an aluminum ladder is an excellent electrical conductor.

Read more about holiday lighting safety here from Washington State University Extension Energy Program and the Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance.

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Getting Your Home Ready For Winter

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:31:48 -0400

With winter on its way a few routine steps will help keep you safe, comfortable and save you money.

Take care of safety Items first
Check your smoke detectors. If you have an attached garage, live in multi-family, or have gas, oil or wood burning appliances, you must have a carbon monoxide detector!! All homes should have them, since there is no way to tell if you have a problem with CO. Most people never know they have a problem until someone is make sick or they are killed.

Take any warning from a carbon monoxide detector very seriously, and call the fire department.

Check your Heat
If you have an oil furnace, have it checked annually. A very small adjustment can make a huge difference in your heating bill, not to mention reducing the pollution from poorly adjusted burners.

Gas furnaces should be checked regularly too. Our recommendations is to have the 1st service at 5 years, again at 10, then every year thereafter for a mid efficiency furnace. (80% with metal exhaust flues) Some high efficiency models have shorter live spans (closer to 10 years) so they need annual checks by 7 years (90% plastic exhaust condensing furnaces) Be sure to keep up on changing your furnace filters. If you have a electric fan forced wall unit (like a Cadet or a King) be sure to properly clean them. We have a copy of the instructions here.

Chimneys, If you heat with wood, have your flue swept and checked every year. Examine wood stoves for cracked or missing fire bricks, poor door seals, and loose or damaged flue pipes.

Prepare the exterior
Clean gutters and check the downspouts assuring that they discharge away from the building, the further the better.

All non frost free hose bibs should be insulated to protect them from freezing. Be sure to disconnect hoses! A hose will cause a frost free hose bib to freeze when the water in the hose freezes.

Look at all trees, and other plants. They should be trimmed back so they cant touch the home. Any contact is a natural path for insects, rodents, and can contribute to structural pests.

Walk around your home and look at the bottom row of siding. Ideally there should be 6 inches of concrete below the bottom row of siding. If soil or bark is piled too high there is a much greater chance of problems with termites ants or beetles damaging the home.

Look at every window and door. Check weather stripping, repair as necessary. Look at every threshold and door sweep, if there are gaps, you will be loosing heat. Caulk all gaps in siding, trim, utility holes, etc.

If it is safe to do so, remove any leaves and other debris from the roof. Use great care to not remove the granules on a asphalt roof. (DO NOT PRESSURE WASH) Ideally on a dry day, carefully use a leaf blower, debris in valleys and behind chimney's can cause water to back up and cause leaks.