Seattle Home Inspection Experts (206) 295-4330

What is that beeping in my attic??

Often heating and cooling contractors will install equipment in attics that have drains for condensate.  It is a normal part of their operation to have water that must be drained.  If there is a problem with this system (mildew and dirt can clog them) it could leak and make a mess.  Most have a tray under them to protect ceilings in case of a leak but it won't do you any good if it overflows.  Some trays have a drain and the best installs have alarms.

Water alarm under a furnace in an attic
I cant tell you how many times I have found an alarm in an attic and the clients had no idea.  We recommend a tray and an alarm under all water heaters and washing machines in any location in your home where a  leak will cause damage.  They are cheap and may save you a ton of money and headache when your equipment leaks.

One more tip:
Toss the rubber hoses out that connect your washing machine, get the metal braided hoses.  Washing machine hoses bursting are the number one homeowners claim.  Super cheap insurance to change them early.

 


If you find this information useful, don't keep us a secret!
List us on any of your favorite networking / bookmarking sites
Bookmark and Share

Our Home Page - Articles and Advice - Our Reports - Testimonials - Our Company - Services

4 comments • JJ and Suzanne Greive - Seattle Area ASHI Inspections • August 29 2011 11:37AM

Home energy savings tips

Our Home Page - Articles and Advice - Our Reports - Testimonials - Our Company - Services

Saving energy in your home will not only save you money, but will also help the environment by reducing the need for hydro-electric dams and fossil fuels used to produce electricity. These steps will pay for themselves again and again for years to come.

The average home looses up to 20% of its heating due to drafts. Doors, windows, outlets, and switches are all common areas of heat loss. Most heating bills in our area can be $2000 a season or more meaning those drafts can cost you $400 a year! That buys a lot of weather stripping and caulking. Most doors and windows are easy to check with just your hand, if you feel the cold air coming in then you are loosing heat. Outlets and switches also can be drafty, if you feel cool air around them, consider foam gaskets under the cover plates. Old single pane windows can be made more efficient by installing storm windows or inside magnetic panels to reduce drafts. Read more on caulk and weather stripping here.

During the day, let the sunlight in to reduce lighting costs, but at sunset, closing curtains will also help reduce heat loss. Consider cellular blinds as they are more energy efficient then blinds and shutters.

Turning down your thermostat by one degree can save over 5 percent on your heating bill. Consider electronic thermostats with built in timers to reduce energy use when you are at work or sleeping. You can still awaken to a warm house and not use energy when you don't need to. Avoid heating rooms you don't use by closing heat vents or turning down individual room thermostats.

Have your heating system checked regularly to assure that it is running at top efficiency, and always keep air filters clean. A tiny change in a furnace or boiler systems combustion can dramatically lower your heating bills and will often pay for the service call in energy savings.
Water heaters use a lot of energy and should have the thermostats set to 120 degrees. Not only will this save energy, but dramatically reduces the risk of scalding injuries. If it is set higher, you will be using a lot of cold water to bring the temperature down. Gas how water heaters have their thermostat on the exterior and are easy to set, electric heaters are under cover and should be set by a professional. Read more about energy efficient water heating here.

Take showers instead of filling a bath and save about 50% of the energy. Low flow shower heads save both water and energy. If you have a hot tub, make sure the cavity under the tub is insulated and you use a insulated cover. Turn down the heat when you are not going to use it for an extended time.

Lighting is one of the easiest ways to save energy and money. Compact florescent lights (CFLs) are direct replacements for standard incandescent light bulbs. The 100 watt equivalent lights can last 13 times longer and use less then 1/4th the energy. When you buy and install a 6 pack of CFLs, it is like putting $550 in your pocket! They have styles now for replacing bathroom globes and outdoor flood lights. But remember they can't be used with dimmers, and must be disposed of properly. Most hardware stores will take the old lights back.

Computers use significant energy, especially those that are left on all the time. Remember a screensaver saves no energy, but hibernation does, or better yet power them off and save more. Modern LCD displays use 1/3 the energy then a old CRT. Same with most laptops, they are more energy efficient then a standard desktop.
TV's use power all the time, even when they are turned 'off'. Most entertainment devices with remotes (DVD players, VCRs, stereo equipment also use power in standby mode. Unplugging them when you are not using them will save energy.

Keep freezers free from excessive ice buildup. A defrosted freezer is more efficient. Open the doors a minimum amount of time to keep the cold inside. Every time a refrigerator door is opened, the compressor had to re-chill the contents.

Laundry is another big power user, so wash full loads. Use the coolest water temperature that will do the job, and always rinse with cold water. The washing machine itself doesn't use nearly the energy as the water heater does to wash in warm or hot water. The clothes dryer is one of the highest energy use appliance in most homes. Use a clothes line and you will save significant energy.

Look for the "Energy Star" label on all household appliances, and buy the ones with the lowest energy use.

Home without adequate insulation should upgraded. The first place is in the attic, it is cheap and easy to add. The payback in energy savings is very fast since 1/3rd of heat lost is through the roof. If you walls are un-insulated we recommend adding it there too. It will pay you back for as long as you own the home and increase the re-sale value.
Examples of Where to Insulate

1. In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between and over the floor joists to seal off living spaces below. 1A attic access door
2. In finished attic rooms with or without dormer, insulate …
2A between the studs of "knee" walls;
2B between the studs and rafters of exterior walls and roof;
2C ceilings with cold spaces above;
2D extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.
3. All exterior walls, including …
3A walls between living spaces and unheated garages, shed roofs, or storage areas;
3B foundation walls above ground level;
3C foundation walls in heated basements, full wall either interior or exterior.
4. Floors above cold spaces, such as vented craw spaces and unheated garages. Also insulate …
4A any portion of the floor in a room that is cantilevered beyond the exterior wall below;
4B slab floors built directly on the ground;
4C as an alternative to floor insulation, foundation walls of un-vented crawl spaces;
4D extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.
5. Band joists.
6. Replacement or storm windows and caulk and seal around all windows and doors.


If you find this information useful, don't keep us a secret!
List us on any of your favorite networking / bookmarking sites
Bookmark and Share

7 comments • JJ and Suzanne Greive - Seattle Area ASHI Inspections • December 05 2010 10:44AM

Tips for Thawing Frozen Pipes

Our Home Page - Articles and Advice - Our Reports - Testimonials - Our Company - Services

Since this is such an unusual cold snap in the Seattle (18 degrees this morning here), I thought I would pass along this article on thawing frozen pipes, just in case this happens to you.  The plumbers of the city are going to be really busy today!

During cold weather, pipes in your walls, attic or under your floor can freeze. Frozen pipes can crack or burst because as water freezes, it expands. With enough expansion, pipes will develop cracks. The cracks may not be visible but they will leak nonetheless when the ice melts. If a frozen section of pipe is caught in time, there may be no damage; but it must be thawed before any more freezing occurs. Protecting pipes from freezing is the best plan, but if you are reading this, then that will have to take a backseat to thawing the frozen pipes.


If there is a slow trickle at the faucet, leave the faucet open. The flowing water will help to prevent a complete frozen blockage. In addition, the flowing water may help to melt the existing partial blockage. Continue with the following steps to ensure the pipes thaw completely.

Locate the Frozen Pipe

The first step to thaw frozen pipes is to locate the section of pipe and turn off the local water supply to it. To determine whether a section of pipe is frozen, simply feel it. Frozen pipe will feel very cold, while pipe with free flowing water will feel notably warmer. Try to find a pipe through which water is still flowing to use as a comparison. After a couple minutes of running, the pipe should be around 50 degrees or so. If you have an infrared thermometer, it makes finding frozen pipes easy.

How to repair a frozen or broken pipe

If there is no water at any of the taps in the house, the main water line may be frozen somewhere between the meter and where the water line enters the house. Typically this line is buried, and buried at the locally mandated depth to protect it from freezing. There is little to be done to thaw a buried water line. The only course of action is to rebury the line deeper, below the frost line, to ensure against future freezes.

In serious freezes, there may be multiple frozen sections of pipe in various vulnerable locations. The first point to inspect is where the water line comes out of the ground and where it enters your home. Any exposed pipe is vulnerable if it is exposed to outside air, even if it is in your attic, unconditioned basement or crawlspace.

Exterior walls, even when insulated, may get cold enough to freeze pipes inside the wall. Pipes that pass near an exterior vent in your home are subjected to colder air and are a good place to start hunting. If there is no water in only one part of the house, then the frozen pipe is probably in an exterior wall, attic, crawl space or basement.

Once you locate the frozen section, if the pipe is accessible, inspect it visually and by running your fingers over the pipe to feel for cracks or splits. If you find damage, you may want to get repair materials ready before thawing the pipe. If the pipe is not accessible, read on for techniques to deal with hard to reach pipes.

Before you start the thawing process, open water taps on the frozen line to allow water, steam or pressure to escape. This will allow water to drain out as the ice melts and will tell you if you have succeeded in melting the obstruction.

How you heat the pipe depends upon the type of pipe and the location. But in all cases start nearest the tap and work outward. Never heat a pipe with direct flame or boiling water. Heating a pipe too quickly can result in bursting, damage and injury.

Accessible pipes can be heated with a hair dryer. Keep the dryer moving and do not focus it on any one place too long.

Hot wet rags can be used to heat pipes. Simply immerse a rag in hot water (about 110 degrees F) and wrap it around the pipe. Replace the rag when it cools.

A grounded, water resistant heating pad can be wrapped around the pipe and set to the lowest heat setting.

Thawing Metal pipes

While a flame can be used to heat accessible copper or steel pipes, it is not recommended to use a direct flame on any pipe as this increases the risk of damage to the pipe as well as presenting a fire risk. Never heat the pipe any warmer than you can comfortably tolerate holding the pipe bare handed and always use a flame spreader to diffuse the flame. Never use a flame on plastic pipe.

Accessible pipes can be heated with a hair dryer. Keep the dryer moving and do not focus it on any one place too long.

Hot wet rags can be used to heat pipes. Simply immerse a rag in hot water and wrap it around the pipe. If you are able to catch water from under the pipe, you can go a step further by pouring hot (not boiling) water over the rags.

A grounded, water resistant heating pad can be wrapped around the pipe and set to the lowest heat setting.

Thawing Inaccessible pipes

Frozen water pipes located in inaccessible locations can be warmed by raising the ambient temperature. In cases where the pipe is located in an exterior facing wall, open cabinets to allow warm interior air to warm the cabinet and wall. Locating pipes may require a little detective work. First consider, most pipes travel through walls in the most direct route to get to the room they service. The water lines are likely to be near the rooms they service. Raising the indoor temperature will increase the temperature in all rooms and help heat pipes in exterior walls. But direct application of heat where the pipes run will speed the process even more.

You may place a heat lamp or portable heater facing the wall to warm it. Before using a heat source remove any combustible materials and follow all manufacturers safety warnings about how close it may be placed to the wall or other obstruction. In the absence of other warnings, place the heat source no closer than 18 inches from the wall or obstruction.

Heating this way will take time, but it does work.

Source: http://www.acmehowto.com

 


If you find this information useful, don't keep us a secret!
List us on any of your favorite networking / bookmarking sites
Bookmark and Share

 
2 comments • JJ and Suzanne Greive - Seattle Area ASHI Inspections • November 23 2010 10:39AM

Carpenter Ants - They are back!!

Spring is here and we found our first carpenter ants of the season yesterday. Everyone in western Washington should know how to recognize these destructive pests. They cause more damage to homes then any other insect in our area. 

If you find anything like these, call us and we will positively identify them for you . We will pass along advice to avoid them and keep them under control. BTW, don't bother fighting them yourself, you can't buy the recommended pesticide to control them without a license.

Other tips to recognize them, They almost never walk side-by-side, almost always in single file, and not head to tail, but about 1 foot apart. Their favorite food is other insects so look for them to be returning to your home with aphids or other small insects in their jaws. If you find these and want advice call us, no charge. 206-295-4330

The best treatment is called Termidor,  a very strictly regulated chemical, only a professional with a license can buy it, and by law, it can only be used 2 times a year on any given home.  If you have a serious infestation, they also may use a wall injection along with the Termidor perimeter spray. We have recommendations for local pest control officers that will help you with controlling these destructive critters.  If you want a their number give us a call.

Read more about these carpenter ants here:


If you find this information useful, don't keep us a secret!
List us on any of your favorite networking / bookmarking sites
Bookmark and Share

 

 

6 comments • JJ and Suzanne Greive - Seattle Area ASHI Inspections • March 24 2010 10:13PM

BACKDRAFTING EXHAUST GAS HAZARDS - brought to you by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

We found this in a home in West Seattle yesterday. The furnace and hot water heater shared the same closet. The furnaces cold air return was broken, and sucking air out of the small space pulling the exhaust out of the burner chamber under this hot water heater.

The sheet metal is loose on the joists
that make up this furnaces cold air
return. Not only causing the hot water
to backdraft, but very efficiently
distributing these potentially lethal
gasses throughout the home.


This hot water heater has exhaust rollout. If your water heater has these stains please have it checked out.

What makes this so dangerous is that the exhaust gasses from this water heater are getting circulated throughout the home by the furnace! I repeat, EVERYONE with gas appliances, attached garages or in multifamily MUST HAVE CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS. What you can't smell can kill you!

Read more on backdrafting at our website.


If you find this information useful, don't keep us a secret!
List us on any of your favorite networking / bookmarking sites
Bookmark and Share

6 comments • JJ and Suzanne Greive - Seattle Area ASHI Inspections • February 26 2010 10:49AM

Tips for selling your home and a smooth buyers inspection

When you are selling your home, you should be prepared for the buyers to have your home inspected.  All good inspectors will be looking for how your home had been maintained.  Before you list your home, take a close look at these items and you will be better prepared and it may make the difference in a tight market.  Make sure there is clear access to all components of the home including electrical panels, water heaters, heating/air conditioners, attics and crawlspaces.

Walk around your homes exterior

1) Roof - Clean roof GENTLY (NO pressure washers, they can ruin a roof!)  Carefully using a leaf blower, clean all valleys or other areas.  If you use too much force, you will loosen the grit from the roofing and the sun will cause the roofing to shrink and crack.  
Clean gutters, repair any loose mounts or leaking joints.
Have professionally swept and/or repair chimney, check masonry, mortar, crowns, bricks/blocks, liners, flashings, rain covers.  Check chimney siding, trim, paint, caulk, etc.  Have the receipts available for buyers and inspectors.

2) Landscape - Is the soil/mulch touching the homes siding?  We would like to see 6" clearance, any less then 3" is too close.  Maintain a slope away from the home so water will naturally run off.  Never allow water to puddle next to your home.  Trim all trees and bushes from touching any of the structure.  

3) Drainage - Check every downspout, splash block and drain.  Assure that they all direct water away from the home and are not leaking or loose. 

4) Repair any loose trim or siding.  Caulk all holes, siding, trim, doors and windows.  Paint and stain all exterior surfaces. 

5) If the driveways are asphalt, they often would benefit from a sealer coat.

Inside the home

1) Heating/AC systems
Have all furnaces, boilers, etc cleaned/serviced and filters changed with receipts for the buyers/inspectors.

2) Safety Equipment
check all smoke detectors, CO detectors, fire extinguishers.  Test all GFCIs (they are required within 6 feet of water, outside, in basements and garages.) 

Here is a great tip.  If you know you need GFCIs and you know how read instructions, then install them!  Use care, and never work on live circuits.  If an inspector sees a missing gfci, it is likely to cost you $75 or $100 for a "licensed and bonded professional" to install one.  If you do it, and you do it correctly, it costs around $15 or less for the part.

3) Lighting and outlets
Repair any broken switches, outlets, covers, fixtures or bulbs.

4) Hardware
Examine every door, lock, hinge, doorstop, casing, and trim.  All doors and windows should close and lock easily, repair and adjust as necessary.  Weather-stripping should be in good repair.  Repair any broken glass, counter balance springs, trim, etc.  If the screens are really poor, remove them!

5) Plumbing
Check all toilets, they must be tight and not move when you push them with your knee.  The flooring around them should be clean and not have any leaks.  Run every sink, and tub look for leaks, sink stoppers, leaking showerheads, enclosures or valves, and loose hardware. 
Examine and repair any gaps or cracks in grout and caulk. 

Attic - check insulation and ventilation.  Assure that no bathroom or other fans exhaust in the attic.

Prepare your home

6) Clean and Paint
Put on your homes best face, clean all floors, carpets, repair any cracks and holes in the drywall and paint.  Clean all clutter!  Tastefully decorate - properly staged homes are much easier to sell!

 

 

 

7 comments • JJ and Suzanne Greive - Seattle Area ASHI Inspections • September 14 2009 08:13PM