Seattle Home Inspection Newsletter

Bare bulb fixtures - Often overlooked safety hazard kills 5 in Seattle

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We found this in a closet yesterday, and reminded me to write about this very common and overlooked safety hazard.  This type light fixture is the suspected cause for the fire in Fremont that killed 5. 

Bare bulb fixtures can be dangerous, especially in closets where it is easy to make contact with flammables (clothes, blankets pillows) also are a hazard if you break the bulb accessing the upper shelf.

A compact florescent bulbs are safer, as they are much cooler and less likely to be a fire hazard. They is still the issue of  breaking glass when you move things on and off the shelf

The best answer to to replace these fixtures with ones with protective cover.

May the victims rest in peace.

"Seattle's deadliest fire in decades was sparked by a foam mattress left too close to a bare bulb in a closet, Fire Chief Gregory Dean said during a Wednesday news conference.

Four children and a 22-year-old woman were killed in blaze, reported at just after 10 a.m. in an apartment at 334 N.W. 41st St. Another woman and a 5-year-old girl were able to escape as fire and heavy smoke trapped the other five occupants in a bathroom at the rear of the two-story apartment.

A light bulb inside a first-floor closet ignited a rolled foam mattress. One victim investigated the smoke then began opening windows and doors around the home in an attempt to clear the smoke.  As the fire grew, Dean said, the open windows and doors acted as a chimney and fed the fire."  The Seattle Times


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Louisiana Pacific Siding, How to Recognize it and Preventive Maintenance Tips

Does your home have LP siding? 

 

Be sure to check for any damage, diligently caulk and paint it.  Keep shrubs, trees and plants a minimum of one foot from the siding, keep sprinklers away, maintain gutters and downspouts.  See our tip sheet for more information on recognizing LP and maintenance tips. http://hipspro.com/pubs/TRIFOLD_LP-siding.pdf


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Sanitary Pump Venting

We found this under a sink last recently. This is a basement kitchen that is below the sewer for the home and they have installed a sanitary pump to push the waste water up to the sewer line. It STUNK, literally! 

It was allowing sewer gases to escape under the kitchen cabinet. These tanks must be vented to work properly. As water enters the pump basin, there must be a way for air to be displaced. A proper installation would have had this vent pipe go up the wall and exiting through the roof. They had a Studor valve sitting next to the pump. These devices are one-way valves that allow air in but do not allow for sewer gas to escape. In this example, it is not good idea, since as the basin fills with waste water, the air must escape, and as the pump empties it, air must enter the basin.


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Carpenter Ants - They are back!!

Spring is here and we found our first carpenter ants of the season yesterday. Everyone in western Washington should know how to recognize these destructive pests. They cause more damage to homes then any other insect in our area. 

If you find anything like these, call us and we will positively identify them for you . We will pass along advice to avoid them and keep them under control. BTW, don't bother fighting them yourself, you can't buy the recommended pesticide to control them without a license.

Other tips to recognize them, They almost never walk side-by-side, almost always in single file, and not head to tail, but about 1 foot apart. Their favorite food is other insects so look for them to be returning to your home with aphids or other small insects in their jaws. If you find these and want advice call us, no charge. 206-295-4330

The best treatment is called Termidor,  a very strictly regulated chemical, only a professional with a license can buy it, and by law, it can only be used 2 times a year on any given home.  If you have a serious infestation, they also may use a wall injection along with the Termidor perimeter spray. We have recommendations for local pest control officers that will help you with controlling these destructive critters.  If you want a their number give us a call.

Read more about these carpenter ants here:


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BACKDRAFTING EXHAUST GAS HAZARDS - brought to you by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

We found this in a home in West Seattle yesterday. The furnace and hot water heater shared the same closet. The furnaces cold air return was broken, and sucking air out of the small space pulling the exhaust out of the burner chamber under this hot water heater.

The sheet metal is loose on the joists
that make up this furnaces cold air
return. Not only causing the hot water
to backdraft, but very efficiently
distributing these potentially lethal
gasses throughout the home.


This hot water heater has exhaust rollout. If your water heater has these stains please have it checked out.

What makes this so dangerous is that the exhaust gasses from this water heater are getting circulated throughout the home by the furnace! I repeat, EVERYONE with gas appliances, attached garages or in multifamily MUST HAVE CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS. What you can't smell can kill you!

Read more on backdrafting at our website.


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Trusting your GFCI test button could kill you!

A "GFCI" is a ground fault circuit interrupter. These are inexpensive outlets when they are PROPERLY installed prevent over 200 electrocutions each year. The problem is we find them wired incorrectly several times a week.

The 'TEST" button is confusing if they are installed wrong. Today, I found one with the positive and negative connections backwards, (the test button still works) and more commonly we find them connected without a ground especially in older homes (again the test button still works). While it is technically legal to install without a ground, most electricians prefer not to install a grounded-type "three prong" outlet in an ungrounded situation. Once the outlet is installed, there is no way for anyone to know if the outlet is really grounded or not without testing it. There is a hidden shock hazard should an appliance or tool that needs grounding is plugged into this outlet.

We recommend that you buy a cheap tester like we have, without it, you have no way to assure it is properly installed. Read more about the importance of GFCIs here

You can find these testers at your local hardware store on online for less the $10


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Though a GFI will activate if a grounded appliance develops an electrical short circuit to ground... such as when YOU touch a metal saw and become the path to ground... you will experience a momentary electrical shock.  This could be a minor tingle or could be  more catastrophic, especially if you are on a ladder or roof.  This excerpt is from an OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) article on wiring in nursing homes and the dangers to employees working with ungrounded outlets...

"The ground-fault circuit interrupter, on the other hand, is a fast-acting device which senses small current leakage to ground and, in a fraction of a second, shuts off the electricity and interrupts its faulty flow to ground. The rapid response of the GFCI is fast enough to prevent electrocution and this protection is independent of the condition of the grounding conductor.

A GFCI can prevent an electrocution; however, it cannot by itself prevent an initial electric shock to an employee before it interrupts the circuit. This initial shock could lead to injuries of an indirect or secondary nature in which involuntary muscular reaction could cause bruises, bone fractures, and even death resulting from collisions or falls. Therefore, GFCIs are in addition to, and not in lieu of, equipment grounding conductor requirements."

(Here is a link to the complete article: 

http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=FEDERAL_REGISTER&p_id=13346 )

Are there any situations where a GFI will not protect me from a dangerous shock?

GFI's are not effective in certain circumstances.  As mentioned earlier, they work by measuring the difference between the electrical current going INTO an appliance and the current going OUT of the appliance.  This assumes that the person being shocked is grounded.   If you were ungrounded and touched the hot and neutral wires at the same time, there would be no drop in current detected, so the GFI would not activate.  Then, you would be at the mercy of the fuses or circuit breakers, which may or may not stop the current before its too late!  

A second situation where a GFI will not protect you is when a second, unprotected circuit is involved in an accident.  This can happen when a wire is accidentally drilled into or a metal screw penetrates a wire hidden in the wall.  Unless this second circuit is also protected, you are at full risk of electrocution, even if the tool itself is on a protected circuit!

Source: http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infelectrical/infgfi.html#7

Interior Air Quality Problems and Solutions

Builders have made great strides to make our homes energy efficient. This has resulted in new problems with the quality of the air. We typically spend 12 or more hours a day in our homes resulting in potentially long term exposure to unhealthy air. Some homes have from 2 to 100 times more polluted air than outside. This pollution can cause serious health problems. Dust, smoke, pet dander, mold, mildew, and dust mites are all very common in the typical home. We have researched this problem and found several tips to improve air quality.

Fan forced furnaces: If your home is equipped with a fan forced furnace, have the fan running continuously. This will draw air through the filters capturing harmful pollutants. Keep the filters clean, replacing them every 60 to 90 days. High efficiency air filters will capture up to 30 time more pollutants then standard filters. The spun organic/fiberglass filters are the poorest choice, so avoid the reusable washable types. If you do not have a fan forced furnace, you might consider using a portable air cleaner. The units have a huge range in costs and effectiveness, read more about portable air filter from the American Lung Association here. Kitchens: Keep the kitchen vented when cooking, especially if you are cooking with gas appliances. Combustion gases and burning foods can cause serious health problems. All gas cooking appliances require fresh air to properly operate and prevent accumulation of carbon monoxide. Use the exhaust fans and/or keep a kitchen window open while cooking.

Wood heating sources: If you have a fireplace or wood stove, it is recommended that a window be kept open slightly to provide adequate combustion air, especially in a newer tightly constructed home. Keep firewood stored outside. Green firewood can release mold spores, which can contaminate your home. It is estimated that 1/3 of all Americans fail to do this making it one of the major contributors to indoor air quality problems. Bioaerosols: Excess moisture in the air can cause bioaerosols to proliferate. Mold, mildew, fungus and dust mites are all organisms that can cause health problems. Reducing the humidity/moisture sources and air handling equipment maintenance are important steps to controlling these problems.

Bathrooms: Bathrooms are one common source of moisture, especially showers. Always use bath exhaust fans if present or open windows to remove excess moisture. Make sure bath fans are vented outside the home and not into attics.

Inspect vents and keep them clean: Often crawlspace vents can get clogged with landscaping materials, weeds, grass clippings etc. Ventilation is very important to keeping crawlspace moisture low. Beside health issues, excessive moisture in crawlspaces is a conducive condition to wood destroying organisms. If you have combustion appliances, check the air intake vents to assure they are not clogged. Hot water heaters, furnaces, gas stoves etc are possible sources of carbon monoxide without a good supply of fresh air. The American Lung Association recommends annual service of all combustion appliances. At a minimum install carbon monoxide detectors on each level of your home. "Bioaerosols are extremely small living organisms or fragments of living things suspended in the air. Dust mites, molds, fungi, spores, pollen, bacteria, viruses, amoebas, fragments of plant materials, and human and pet dander (skin which has been shed) are some examples. They cannot be seen without a magnifying glass or microscope." (1)

Sources (1) Dr. Sandra A. Zaslow, Extension District Director, and Dr. Mary Beth Genter, Extension Leader, Toxicology - North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, publication FCS-360-5

American Lung Association


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Moisture Ants, The First in our series on Structural Pests in the Northwest

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The structural pests in the Northwest of greatest concern are all dependent on high moisture content in the wood.

If you think about our area of the world, our structural pests all evolved in wet forests. This moisture can come from rain, soil, water supply lines and drains. All these possible sources need to be addressed or there will certainly be a problem. Around here, keep it dry and them pests will usually keep away.
This is a picture from under a toilet. We checked it before we got in the crawlspace, and noted that it was loose. This nearly always leads to leaks and if not promptly addressed, wood decay. Such leaks are sometimes not so obvious especially if there is insulation and or wall-board installed.

This is frass or debris and excrement produced by insects. These piles were in regular intervals along the base of the homes exterior wall. After carefully looking at it, we determined that it was not sand and the regular intervals aligned perfectly with the floor joists. I removed some of the insulation that covered the rim on the outside of the building and I found moisture ants, lots of them and extensive damage to the structure. There were about 15 joists visible, and 15 neat piles of frass.


Every single joist we looked at was covered in these pesky pests at this end of the home. We took careful note of this area of the home and proceeded to explore the exterior to determine what were the contributing problems that causes this infestations. Click this picture to see a close up.




"Most pest species are yellow; they can vary to a rather dark brown, from 3–5 mm long. These are monomorphic species having workers all the same size. Maxillary palpi are long and five-segmented. Colonies usually occur in decayed logs and stumps, but some may be found in soil" WSU Extension Bulletin 1382


Upon further investigation we noticed that the grade next to the home on this side was sloped the wrong way, trapping water next to the home. The gutters and downspouts were in poor condition, and there was other visible damage on the siding. The exterior of this home had been neglected for years, having plants touching the structure is several places, deck framing in poor condition, and need of paint and caulk.

Inside the crawlspace we found more frass, and bare earth. All soil under homes should be covered with plastic, there can be up to 15 gallons of water evaporating under the house a day. A vapor barrier will help control the moisture content, keeping it less susceptible to wood destroying organisms.

Treatment for these pests is usually very simple. Eliminate the moisture and repair the damaged wood, pesticides are usually not necessary. Keeping your wood surfaces clean, painted and dry will prevent most common issues.

Never buy a home without a complete wood destroying organism report

Source WSU Extension Bulletin 1382

Home Inspections of Puget Sound


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Energy Savings and Safety Tips for Holiday Lighting

Holiday lighting is a wonderful tradition, and these tips will help to keep you and your family safe. Use care not to overload your circuits. Do not run too many strings together, the amount of lights on string that can safely be connected differs for each type of light. Read and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Carefully inspect each string for frayed insulation, loose connections or broken bulbs. Never plug in a string that has bulbs broken open, as the interior filament is a electrocution hazard. Only use lights outdoors that are approved for outdoor use.

Use timers to control your lighting to save more energy. This chart dramatically contrasts the old style bulbs with modern LED technology lighting using as little as 1.15% of the energy of the old style lighting.


Another consideration is heat. Never install old style bulbs on a real tree. Think of string of 100, 10 watt lights, that is 1000 watts light and heat. You would never put a 1000 watt heater on a tree for obvious reasons, and these strings are nearly the equivalent of doing just that.

Be careful when hanging lights. Loose wiring is more easily damaged by movement from trees and wind. Never use standard staples, as they can cut into insulation and cause a short or shock hazard. Best to use insulated clips to hang lighting.

GFCI protected outlets are recommended for all outdoor electrical use. They dramatically reduce the risk of electrical shocks and electrocutions.

Use only UL approved exterior grade power cords outside with proper ground (3 prong connector). Never run cords through doorways, windows where they could get damaged or be a trip hazard. Keep all plugs and connectors off the ground, away from puddles and snow.

If you blow fuses or trip breakers, reduce the load on that circuit. Never change the amperage if a blown fuse, if a 15 amp fuse blows, reduce the load on that circuit and replace with the exact same type 15 amp fuse. The wiring in the home is designed to only carry the current of the fuse. That blown fuse likely prevented the wiring from overheating and possible fire.

If you see flickering lights, sparks, warm switches, plugs, or outlets, or dimming lights, there is a potential dangerous problem that could cause an electrical fire.

As always use extreme care on ladders, make sure they have a good footing and are steady. Never touch your exterior power drop! Any contact with a poorly insulated drop will kill you, an aluminum ladder is an excellent electrical conductor.

Read more about holiday lighting safety here from Washington State University Extension Energy Program and the Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance.


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Keeping it Cool, Tips to Make Your Home More Confortable - by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

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With the warmer weather, we are looking to ways to keep our homes cool.  Here are some tips to keep your home comfortable.

Window Coverings
When the temperatures are expected to be high, consider keeping shades closed throughout the day.  It is amazing the difference in heat gain when the sun is kept off the windows.  I have blinds, thermal shades and exterior sun screens that we use on the hottest days to keep the solar gain to a minimum.

Fans
I have a digital indoor and outdoor thermometer that I use to determine when the outside temperature has dropped below the inside temperature.  When the temperature outside has dropped in the evening, I have a large box fan that is tightly fitted in a back bedroom window that exhausts the hot interior air outside.  This causes negative air pressure in the house, and when you open other windows in the home, you will get a nice cool breeze coming in.  

Fan Controller
I have built a simple thermostat to control this fan, (See a diagram and instructions here) so when the house temperature drops below 67 or so, the fan turns off automatically.  Don't forget to remove the fan, close up the windows and shades in the morning to keep the air as cool as possible during the day.

Wall Air Conditioners
We have also installed ceiling fans to keep the air moving, this helps make it much more comfortable, especially in bedrooms. 
In my home, I have small room air conditioners that keep an individual room cool. this is especially nice on very hot evenings when you can't cool the house with a fan because the outside air temperature it too high.  If you keep the door closed these window units are a great choice.

Home Air Conditioners
If you have a central air conditioner,  there are a few items you should consider to keep it running at peak efficiency. 

The outside component of your unit is called the compressor.  It houses the pump and the blower that cool the compressed gas that is then pumped into the home to cool the air inside.  We see these units covered with landscaping debris (grass, weeds, bushes etc.) all the time.  

When this happens the airflow is restricted and it has to work harder to cool your home.  Always keep these units clear from obstructions, so they can easily cool the coils.  Keep lawn clippings from blowing on them when trimming the grass.  Sometimes dryer vents are located too close to AC units, plugging them with lint.

Read your manual on the best way to clean the unit.  Some may be hosed off, ALWAYS TURN OFF THE POWER when cleaning them.  Others require more complex cleaning. A dirty AC will waste a lot of energy.  When in doubt have a professional clean it regularly, usually at least once a year.

Attic Fans
These will help keep he attic spaces cool.  Ideally the attic is the same temperature as the outside air.  In the summer, I routinely enter attics that are as high at 145 degrees!  Ventilation and insulation are both critical to keep this heat away from your living space.  If your attic has less then 12 inches of insulation consider having more added.  This will pay for itself in heating in winter and keep you much more comfortable in summer.

Roofing
When re-roofing a home, consider using light colored coverings. They will reduce the heat from the sun.  We always recommend silver coating un-coated torch down roofs.  It will extend their life and help cool your home.

Thermostats
Use automatic thermostats with timers to control your cooling system.  Be sure your air filters are clean, and your ductwork is tight, well insulated and free from leaks.  We see leaking ductwork every day!

Landscaping
We recommend that you plant trees that will drop their leaves in winter on the south and west side of homes.  This way you have shade in summer and the sun can naturally heat the home in winter.  Remember to keep all plants trimmed away from the building.

"To increase the efficiency of your air-conditioning unit by up to 10 percent, plant trees and shrubs to shade the outside unit; place them at least 18 inches away so they don't block the vents on the compressor. For more tips on ways to use landscaping to increase the energy efficiency of your home, see the DOE's landscaping advice." Consumer Reports

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