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The structural pests in the Northwest of greatest concern are all dependent on high moisture content in the wood.

If you think about our area of the world, our structural pests all evolved in wet forests. This moisture can come from rain, soil, water supply lines and drains. All these possible sources need to be addressed or there will certainly be a problem. Around here, keep it dry and them pests will usually keep away. This is a picture from under a toilet. We checked it before we got in the crawlspace, and noted that it was loose. This nearly always leads to leaks and if not promptly addressed, wood decay. Such leaks are sometimes not so obvious especially if there is insulation and or wall-board installed.
This is frass or debris and excrement produced by insects. These piles were in regular intervals along the base of the homes exterior wall. After carefully looking at it, we determined that it was not sand and the regular intervals aligned perfectly with the floor joists. I removed some of the insulation that covered the rim on the outside of the building and I found moisture ants, lots of them and extensive damage to the structure. There were about 15 joists visible, and 15 neat piles of frass.
 Every single joist we looked at was covered in these pesky pests at this end of the home. We took careful note of this area of the home and proceeded to explore the exterior to determine what were the contributing problems that causes this infestations. Click this picture to see a close up. "Most pest species are yellow; they can vary to a rather dark brown, from 3–5 mm long. These are monomorphic species having workers all the same size. Maxillary palpi are long and five-segmented. Colonies usually occur in decayed logs and stumps, but some may be found in soil" WSU Extension Bulletin 1382
Upon further investigation we noticed that the grade next to the home on this side was sloped the wrong way, trapping water next to the home. The gutters and downspouts were in poor condition, and there was other visible damage on the siding. The exterior of this home had been neglected for years, having plants touching the structure is several places, deck framing in poor condition, and need of paint and caulk.
Inside the crawlspace we found more frass, and bare earth. All soil under homes should be covered with plastic, there can be up to 15 gallons of water evaporating under the house a day. A vapor barrier will help control the moisture content, keeping it less susceptible to wood destroying organisms.
Treatment for these pests is usually very simple. Eliminate the moisture and repair the damaged wood, pesticides are usually not necessary. Keeping your wood surfaces clean, painted and dry will prevent most common issues.
Never buy a home without a complete wood destroying organism report
Source WSU Extension Bulletin 1382
Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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Holiday lighting is a wonderful tradition, and these tips will help to keep you and your family safe.
Use care not to overload your circuits. Do not run too many strings together, the amount of lights on string that can safely be connected differs for each type of light. Read and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Carefully inspect each string for frayed insulation, loose connections or
broken bulbs. Never plug in a string that has bulbs broken open, as the interior
filament is a electrocution hazard. Only use lights outdoors that are approved
for outdoor use. Use
timers to control your lighting to save more energy. This chart dramatically
contrasts the old style bulbs with modern LED technology lighting using as
little as 1.15% of the energy of the old style lighting.
Another consideration is heat. Never install old style bulbs on a real tree. Think of string of 100, 10 watt lights, that is 1000 watts light and heat. You would never put a 1000 watt heater on a tree for obvious reasons, and these strings are nearly the equivalent of doing just that. Be careful when hanging lights. Loose wiring is more easily damaged by movement from trees and wind. Never use standard staples, as they can cut into insulation and cause a short or shock hazard. Best to use insulated clips to hang lighting. GFCI protected outlets are recommended for all outdoor electrical use. They dramatically reduce the risk of electrical shocks and electrocutions. Use only UL approved exterior grade power cords outside with proper ground (3 prong connector). Never run cords through doorways, windows where they could get damaged or be a trip hazard. Keep all plugs and connectors off the ground, away from puddles and snow. If you blow fuses or trip breakers, reduce the load on that circuit. Never change the amperage if a blown fuse, if a 15 amp fuse blows, reduce the load on that circuit and replace with the exact same type 15 amp fuse. The wiring in the home is designed to only carry the current of the fuse. That blown fuse likely prevented the wiring from overheating and possible fire. If you see flickering lights, sparks, warm switches, plugs, or outlets, or dimming lights, there is a potential dangerous problem that could cause an electrical fire. As always use extreme care on ladders, make sure they have a good footing and are steady. Never touch your exterior power drop! Any contact with a poorly insulated drop will kill you, an aluminum ladder is an excellent electrical conductor. Read more about holiday lighting safety here from Washington State University Extension Energy Program and the Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance. 
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With the warmer weather, we are looking to ways to keep our homes cool. Here are some tips to keep your home comfortable.
Window Coverings When the temperatures are expected to be high, consider keeping shades closed throughout the day. It is amazing the difference in heat gain when the sun is kept off the windows. I have blinds, thermal shades and exterior sun screens that we use on the hottest days to keep the solar gain to a minimum.
Fans I have a digital indoor and outdoor thermometer that I use to determine when the outside temperature has dropped below the inside temperature. When the temperature outside has dropped in the evening, I have a large box fan that is tightly fitted in a back bedroom window that exhausts the hot interior air outside. This causes negative air pressure in the house, and when you open other windows in the home, you will get a nice cool breeze coming in.
Fan Controller I have built a simple thermostat to control this fan, (See a diagram and instructions here) so when the house temperature drops below 67 or so, the fan turns off automatically. Don't forget to remove the fan, close up the windows and shades in the morning to keep the air as cool as possible during the day.
Wall Air Conditioners We have also installed ceiling fans to keep the air moving, this helps make it much more comfortable, especially in bedrooms. In my home, I have small room air conditioners that keep an individual room cool. this is especially nice on very hot evenings when you can't cool the house with a fan because the outside air temperature it too high. If you keep the door closed these window units are a great choice.
Home Air Conditioners If you have a central air conditioner, there are a few items you should consider to keep it running at peak efficiency.
The outside component of your unit is called the compressor. It houses the pump and the blower that cool the compressed gas that is then pumped into the home to cool the air inside. We see these units covered with landscaping debris (grass, weeds, bushes etc.) all the time.
When this happens the airflow is restricted and it has to work harder to cool your home. Always keep these units clear from obstructions, so they can easily cool the coils. Keep lawn clippings from blowing on them when trimming the grass. Sometimes dryer vents are located too close to AC units, plugging them with lint.
Read your manual on the best way to clean the unit. Some may be hosed off, ALWAYS TURN OFF THE POWER when cleaning them. Others require more complex cleaning. A dirty AC will waste a lot of energy. When in doubt have a professional clean it regularly, usually at least once a year.
Attic Fans These will help keep he attic spaces cool. Ideally the attic is the same temperature as the outside air. In the summer, I routinely enter attics that are as high at 145 degrees! Ventilation and insulation are both critical to keep this heat away from your living space. If your attic has less then 12 inches of insulation consider having more added. This will pay for itself in heating in winter and keep you much more comfortable in summer.
Roofing When re-roofing a home, consider using light colored coverings. They will reduce the heat from the sun. We always recommend silver coating un-coated torch down roofs. It will extend their life and help cool your home.
Thermostats Use automatic thermostats with timers to control your cooling system. Be sure your air filters are clean, and your ductwork is tight, well insulated and free from leaks. We see leaking ductwork every day!
Landscaping We recommend that you plant trees that will drop their leaves in winter on the south and west side of homes. This way you have shade in summer and the sun can naturally heat the home in winter. Remember to keep all plants trimmed away from the building.
"To increase the efficiency of your air-conditioning unit by up to 10 percent, plant trees and shrubs to shade the outside unit; place them at least 18 inches away so they don't block the vents on the compressor. For more tips on ways to use landscaping to increase the energy efficiency of your home, see the DOE's landscaping advice." Consumer Reports

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